Oregon and Washington Deserts

IMG_0739 IMG_0740 IMG_0741 IMG_0742 IMG_0743 IMG_0744 IMG_0745IMG_0761 IMG_0762 IMG_0756 IMG_0755 IMG_0766 IMG_0744 IMG_0743 IMG_0759 IMG_0758 IMG_0764 IMG_0774 IMG_0775 IMG_0784 IMG_0786 IMG_0788 IMG_0791 IMG_0792 IMG_0801 IMG_0803 IMG_0810 IMG_0811 IMG_0812

It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial.  This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended.  My family, I know you’ll still love me.  My friends, the same.  Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will.  Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me.  God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

Once we awake to another exceptional breakfast we load up the vehicle with hiking gear and out bike stuff then head on to meet some folks who are going to be hiking with us.  We’ve got eight people total, and one is a botanist while one other specializes in native plant types to do your lawn in.  Boise is definitely in the desert and finding a decent set of plants to have in your lawn can be difficult, so by nature go with plants that are indigenous to the area will yield the best luck and results.  Before we head to meet the folks I must make mention of…. One wild thing that not many people in NC are familiar with is flood irrigation.  I watched Marty flood his lawn unlike anything I’ve ever seen on purpose.  He and his neighbors share an irrigation ditch that intersects their yards and they all have a day designated as their day to flood their own yard.  A simple process, but Marty lifted a small gate at one end of his yard, and the yard was built on some unnoticeable grade where the whole yard would flood without seeping into others yards but still had full coverage.  Whenever the flooding was at it’s peak, the water was over six inches deep in some parts of the yard.  Watching the water weave through elevated produce beds, different rock formations surrounding flowers and the foundation of the house was a neat process, especially when you take into consideration the fact that you could still walk from the house to the detached garage, to the porch and to the irrigation gate itself in the back of the yard all without getting your feet wet.  Marty has his shit together, if you no what I’m sayin’.

After the irrigation we roll out to meet the friends and convoy ourselves towards Leslie Gulch.  On the way we get pulled over by a police man for speeding.  The police man thought it was funny that both cars pulled over, claiming it must be his lucky day to catch two at once.  He was nice though, and Marty had stated that he hand’t had a speeding ticket since earning citizenship over twenty years ago.  Marty was from Holland, and I think he had as much enjoyment listening to my draw and Lauren’s dialect as I enjoyed listening to how he drew out syllables that I am not used to.  As we enter into the gulch, which for the unfamiliar is like a gorge back in NC, but with the absence of water, the terrain is absolutely insane.  Insane enough to the point that if you look it up on Google.maps is says “Leslie Gulch-Canyon with Striking Geological Formations”.  This is a fact and as we enter further into the gulch and the formations become more striking, Lauren utters rather subtly “That’s crazy.”  After about the second time she said it, Marty mentions that he had never heard anyone refer to a geological formation as crazy, and he found this highly amusing, bringing him to laughter multiple times through out the day.  For people of our generation referring to something as crazy is normal, even expected.  Lauren and I have even been known to say it in unison without any choreography or rehearsal in reference to different view-scapes and occurrences throughout our involvement with each other. After bringing notice of his finding of humor in this, we put up a guard on word choice, and when the guard goes down and this unavoidable use of generational verbiage expresses itself, Marty has a chuckle and repeats “That’s crazy!”  Truth be known, it was crazy.  Leslie Gulch was one of the crazier places I’ve ever been to. 

As we get to our hiking point and start to journey forward the botanist and professional landscaper and plant enthusiast point out a few different things about some different plants.  Lauren and I are kind of bored by all the discussion of desert plans, another generational issue I’ve come to notice.  Our generation seems to want reward for efforts quick, and easy; a character fault of anyone born after the late ’70’s it seems to me.  Some people have more patience just by the nature of their personality types, but most want more, and they want it now.  We loved the hike, and absolutely the landscape, but I know for a fact that I couldn’t tell you the single name of any of the plants we saw out there.  The knowledge was impressive and pretty interesting, but just like movies, I have a hard time paying attention sometimes.  The plant specialist both did well though, taking the information in small bits.

I was beyond grateful to be hiking.  Before committing to this bike ride, and also to Lauren, I would have been more likely to hike across the states.  I love hiking and even less geographically interesting hikes are still fun for me.  I am a huge fan, however, of things that are difficult, physically and technically, things that are intense, or even “crazy”.  This gulch provided all of the above, and my most notable moments of the trip thus far have happened on foot, and not on bicycle, although a few moments are  creeping up closer to the mark.  Once we get towards the end of the gulch and the hills start to become totally unavoidable, we al turn around and head back.  The memories of this place will forever be embossed as this place was totally boss. 

Once we get back to the vehicles we finish the trek down to where the gulch meets a river, and thus unbecoming a gulch.  This was a sad site to see; an absolute wonder to spectate, but a concern for hundreds of thousands who live in some relativity to this life line.  I took a picture of the mountain on the other side of this would-be lake.  You can see evidence of where the water level should be, and had probably been since it’s formation(man made).  All that was left was what would be classified as a creek back home.  It had been like this for a year, we were told.  Wether it be seasonal drought or climate change or what ever theory you prescribe to, it was disheartening to look at.  We turn around and begin our climb back to the mainland. 

Marty and Nurse Betty have been kind enough to deliver us roughly six miles away from a place called Vale, OR.  We made a pit stop at a place where the original Oregon Trail ran through.  This was an enlightening experience and there are still permanent indentions in the ground from where wagons made the trek from east to west.  Perhaps some of these folks took a similar route to us.  Either way, we had relief from nice folks, we had bicycles on paved roads, and we didn’t have to bring live sheep and cattle with us.  The elements we had to brave might have been similar, but the mode of transportation brings an entirely different level to the game.

Nurse Betty and Marty bid us adieu, and take a couple of amazing photos of us heading down this large decline into Vale.  I’m impressed at how many super long downhills we have experienced in the past five hundred miles.  Yay for us.

We get to the campground and fumble for anyone who has a clue as to how to check in.  We’ve seen the self check in stuff before, but we couldn’t locate this one anywhere.  We figure it out and decide to do our first CrossFit type work out of the trip; we only biked six miles today.  Something I’ve consistently bitched about on the trip is that I have lugged a set of olympic rings with me for the entire distance and have yet to use them.  The rings are relatively light, but the straps have large metal clasps that weigh a few pounds.  Whine, whine; I came here to get stronger any ways.

We dug this little spot and slept well on the manicured grass and our sleeping mats.  Once we awake we set out for Unity, OR.  Every time I think about Unity I am immediately brought back to Charlie Murphy’s True Hollywood Stories and the release of Rick James’s ever epic album, Unity.  Unity is around sixty miles away and this is great for us to have a shorter distance and get our groove back.  What we didn’t realize is that there is over three thousand feet gain in elevation on this journey.  What we did realize is that there is not another gas station or anything of the sort for around seventy miles.  We knew this and had prepared for it.  Nurse Betty even gave us a package of really nice salami.

We are pedaling through and things are relatively enjoyable to us in regards to temperature and such.  As noon nears and the terrain shifts to even more desolate the temperatures pick up, and by about 1:00p.m. we stop for lunch, and after reaching cell service(way later that day) we realized that temperatures had peaked out at close to one hundred degrees.  We were both sweating and I don’t really sweat.  As we neared lunch time we noticed a few random houses spread out and  had planned on knocking on someones door to ask for some shade while we ate lunch as there was nowhere to hide from the sun.  No trees, no steep irrigation ditches, not even really any power lines to speak of.  We see what looks like the house we will knock on’s driveway and notice some rather creepy signs remarking that all trespassers will be eradicated, government employee or not.  This would not end up being the only one of these we saw in eastern Oregon either.  We forfeit our hunt for a house and decide to lean our two bikes against each other and huddle in the shade of our bicycle tubing and saddle bags.

We lean against each other, despite our own body heat, because that was the only way to share shade on this gravel ridden shoulder.  We have tortillas, ham, salami, and cheese.  We had plenty of snacks and such, but this was what we had for lunch.  As we gather our provisions, we not only notice how warm we really are, but also how warm our food is.  We remove the tortillas and place them back on their packaging for convenience purposes, open the ham and salami packs, and grab a few individually wrapped slices of cheese.  Once I start to open the cheese I can see that it is clearly melted, and am forced to spread the cheese over my tortilla more like you would spread peanut butter.  I place the ham, noticeably warm to my touch, on the melted cheese and then reach for a few slices of salami.  The fat in the salami had started to render out of the meat; it was kinda nice to have some pork fat to spread on my wrap though.  It’s hot out here.

We eat our more than panini warm sandwiches and get back on the road.  Hot and sweaty, we begin to wonder if our water supply is going to be sufficient.  We reach a few decent climbs, and as we reach the top of one of them, Lauren lays out the she has to rest.  She noted that is she could she would take a nap on the side of the road.  I’m not noticing that anything is wrong with her from a performance stand point; she’s been pushing the tempo for what seemed most of the day.  One thing I’ve learned in my years though, when a woman talks, you listen.  We stand on the side of the road for a few and she seems to work out whatever type of internal battle she had going on.  The temperature has cooled a bit, or at least we had some shade as cloud coverage provided a thick blanket between us and the sun, and a very light drizzle coated us for a few.  It must be reiterated that at this point of our trip it is still our ultimate goal to get to Seattle as quickly as possible, and not routed for us at this point was the San Juan Islands, but we have began looking into making it a possibility.  We pull up on a field of sage brush, winds picking up, and I see a small aircraft starting its engine to go for take off.  The winds are pushing against us pretty relentlessly at this point, and I am excited to see how this small plane fairs with the wind.  He takes off and immediately takes a turn into the winds.

After he takes off, I see two guys get into a truck and start heading towards us as they were exiting out of the drive that I was standing on.  Lauren makes the notion that we should ask for a ride, or water, or both.  The temperatures are heating back up and even though the wind is blowing, it is blowing against us very hard, and it seems as though some of the wind gusts are only amplifying the heat that we are starting to experience again.  When the truck reaches us, I see that the guy driving this dually is about nine years old, and his co-pilot is about six.  He confirms this we he introduces himself and says “Yeah I’m nine, and this here is my little brother, and he’s six.”  There is no other adult in the immediate vicinity and they inform me that the pilot of the plane was their father.  Said the plane had been sitting in the field all winter and that was the first time starting it back up.  Interesting stuff.

Accepting that the nine year olds were not going to give us a ride, nor would I ask them, we press on.  We crest a hill and come to the bottom where we see what looks like the remnants of a town.  This place was known as Ironside Mountain, or plainly, Ironside.  We stop at a post office and no one is there.  We knock on the door of a trailer, no one is there.  Go to another house and no one is there.  We look around and start to notice that the entire area is near dilapidated.  A short pedal further and I see a few SUV’s in a small lot next to a trailer.  Stating that she refuses to go any further without water(out at this point), Lauren and I pull in in hopes of life.  There is, and an older man waves me up the stairs.

His daughter is there visiting from Sacramento and she offers us some lemonade.  I can tell you one thing is for certain; the taste of this lemonade chilled to 37degrees or less almost hurt it was so good.  As expected the older man, in his late eighties, and  his daughter start to ask us a few questions.  After hearing our story the daughter agrees to drive us a few miles up to the next town, still fifteen miles away.  After we get in the large SUV, she decides she’d rather keep going down, treat us to dinner, and drive us even further.  After we reach some cellular service again, we look up our next place to stay, and find that there is a bike hostel in Mount Vernon.  Here we come.

As ever interesting as Idaho’s landscapes were, Oregon puts up a good fight. As we peddled through the desert and suffered under the conditions of heat and wind, as we got into this ladies vehicle and began to ascend, rather steeply through the Malheur National Forest, snow reappears and the trees begin to live again.  I love the ever changing scenery.  As we continue up for some miles we begin to descend slightly and an opening awards us an opportunity for a pull off.  The viewpoint was looking out over what was known as Strawberry Mountain Wilderness, and it was one of the more beautiful things yet.  It is hard to compare one beautiful spot to the other, and comparing apples to oranges only yields a discrepancy for critique, but the emotions that one goes through in a journey and the mindset that one is in when reaching new areas adds an amazing ingredient in the recipe of experiences.  I wanted to sleep on the hillside looking over this view with thoughts of the Beatles serenading me to sleep with Strawberry Fields forever.  It was a bit chilly, however.  We stop at a little Mexican joint and get our fill on some grub before heading through John Day and into Mount Vernon where the bicycle hostel is.  Again I am left ever thankful for help, and we are allowed to continue our trend of getting to Seattle as quickly as possible.

The bike hostel in Mount Vernon was a very neat set up.  The property itself was very interesting with a large cliff face for a back drop and a neat fencing to hold in very large rabbits and a few goats that enjoyed traversing the terrain.  There was a great place to do some maintenance so I took the opportunity to hang our bikes up and clean out our gears and derailers thoroughly.  It was amazing how filthy they were from the dirt road in the Leslie Gulch area.  We had taken precautions to cover the bikes completely while they were on the bike racks, covering them completely in a tarp cinched with bungee straps.  Little difference it made but it was worth the effort.  I spent roughly two hours on our bikes before retiring to cook some dinner in the hostel.  No one else was there so we had free reign to the grounds.  We plan on going at least to the Ukiah area in the morning, but are keeping our fingers crossed for another opportunity to cover more ground.  This opportunity came at a cost.

We head out on this thoroughly enjoyable HWY 395, enjoyable despite the fact that it is around 39degrees and looks like it might rain.  As we continue on the views gain beauty and the terrain remains trying but not killer.  We experience the rain in the cold for about an hour.  I remember pulling over to eat some trail mix where Lauren and I talked for about thirty minutes about how great the chocolate in the trail mix is and wishing that the whole bag would have been comprised all chocolate.  We continue on, sloshing over mountains and serenity and the low traffic levels are quite enjoyable.  We see numerous abandoned houses leading Lauren to speculate as to why these shells of old homes are left with no care.  My theory, aside from lack of industry forcing people to move away, is what I refer to the Farmer John Theory.   Farmer John had some land and a farm, and he had a decent life where he raised his kids.  His kids, after having a taste of television and radio, realized that there is a great big ol’ world out there and couldn’t imagine staying in there small town.  Fueled with desire for more they leave the homes in which they were raised behind and Farmer John is left to tend to things on his own.  Farmer John, as sad fate would have it, eventually passes away and the children he raised have little interest in maintaining the property from a far, and although the population is too low to have anyone willing to rent the house.  The neighbors who grow the same crops would love to acquire the property to grow more, but the kids, having now acquired street smarts in big cities and astute universities know that they could charge plot rent to the neighbors, and let the houses remain in hopes that someday the market might make the sale more profitable than renting out crop space, thus leaving the house to fall to shit.  Is this the truth? I am not at all sure, but I’d like to think that my theory has plausibility. 

Many of the houses have the scare tactic signs, and scary they were, stating that all trespassers will be executed.  Even though it looks like no one lives here, and by here I mean anywhere we’ve been to for twenty miles now, I’d rather not push my luck.  We finally find ourselves dropping off of a hill top and looking down into a little town that looks like it holds a bit of promise for us to be able to at least get a convenience store hot dog or something of the sort.  When we pull closer we see a picturesque church that looks like a scene out of a country dream, and as we get closer we realize that some of the windows are busted out and we have another large building taking up space with not apparent use.  There were news bulletins of some sort on the doors, but we didn’t go up to see if they had any relevance.  As we continue on into the town of Fox, we realize that there is no store, but we do pass a small warehouse type building and see smoke coming out of a stack.  We had boiled some eggs at the hostel and decided to knock on the door and see if they would let us absorb some of the heat that they are putting off.  A wife and husband are running a mechanics shop out of there and they state that they service anything with an engine in Fox and Long Creek, just eight miles down the road.  Lauren and I remove layers of clothes that are wet and drape them in various manners around the large wood stove, taking special care to try and dry out the socks and shoes.  We’ve been cold for a few hours now.  Eating our eggs and soaking up the warmth is beyond necessary at this point.  Lauren and I go back and forth about wether or not we should leave at this moment, or wait for a few more moments to pass in front of the fire place.  After deciding that it is time for us to head on down the road we walk out of the door and start to gather ourselves to ride ready.  Lauren is expressing a rather serious distaste for continuing at this point and advocates hitching, but as unfortunate as it may be, we have no option but to continue on.  There were may three cars that drove by in the nearly hour that we were in Fox.  After our fate is accepted we know we have eight miles to Long Creek where there is a gas station and most importantly, coffee.  It sucks too, because if the weather conditions were any better, this stretch of road could have been some of the funnest riding we’ve had.  After Lauren pushes her frustration out, she grabs her bike and starts to mount just as I look to my left.

“Lauren.”  I yell, starting at a low decibel, and growing to the upper ends of acceptable.

“What?”  She shouts back, starting to commence the pedal strokes with a hint of vexation.

“We have to get inside.  NOW!” 

I can see over to my left for about fifty yards, and that fifty yards that I can see is becoming ten yards less by the second.  Within fifteen seconds of the start of this dialogue a wave of hail, starting that fifty yards away, has closed around us and we are pelted heavier than when we were in Wyoming.  We run back to the door we had just exited and knock hoping for a reentry.  The wife tells us to get inside.  As I start to pull the door closed, I pause for a second, partially in bewilderment, and partially in appreciation of the awesome power of Mother Nature.  These types of hail storms are a spectacle.  We stay inside for about five minutes before the wife’s sympathy for us begins to over power her and she offers to take us the eight miles to Long Creek.  It hailed almost the entire way, stopping just a few hundred yards before the gas station.  We had crested a pass between Fox and Long Creek that at the top had started to accumulate snow that was mixed in with the hail.  I can not recall many other times in my life where the precipitation was so fierce that I couldn’t see more than a few feet through it.  I’ve experienced many thick fogs, but this was the first time that the hail was so dense that you could only see two feet through the ice. 

Once we get to the store, we know we are going to have to figure something out relatively fast.  When we were unloading the gear from the wife’s truck it was still raining very hard and it was paramount to get everything under this small over hang on a porch.  As I pushed my bike away from the truck, my bungee cargo net that was probably the most underrated piece of equipment yet, stayed hooked onto my back rack and found its way into my spokes, wrapping itself tightly around my hub.  I was pushing the bike in a hurry when all of the sudden my bike tire stopped rolling.  This has potential to be a large problem, but as the rain is coming down, now is not the time to try and inspect the situation.  The rest of the gear is loaded on this veranda and we go inside.  Coffee and great burgers. 

We had a tip that there was motel around and given the current state of affairs we think this might be our only option providing a hitch hike down’t work.  There were some friendly cowboys inside and their company was very welcoming.  None of them were heading the way we needed to go.  Go figure.

After regaining some dryness and warmth Lauren goes to the gas station to see about a ride or a place to stay.  I start working on my bike.  One of the larger regrets of the trip was not taking a picture of how fucked up my hub and spokes looked like they could be with this bungee chord wound so tightly.  The net had became so involved in the spokes that the force had flattened three of the metal hooks used to attach the net to and around whatever it was encapsulating.  Layers of bungee and metal, it took my almost fifteen minutes to remove every bit of the tangled mess with my Leatherman.  Taking the rear wheel off was the first and easiest step. 

As I worked on the bike, I saw Lauren walking back towards me.  She had said the she struck out on a ride, but we might have to suck it up somewhere here.  At that instance a man who had just walked into the restaurant/grocer we were at walked out and asked if I needed any help.  At that moment I was also beaming as I had just untangled what appeared to be untangelable.  We made small talk with him for a few moments and he offered to let us ride with he and his lady to the campground down the road from their house.  Ask and you shall receive. 

We hopped in the truck, seated four wide with our gear in the bed, and headed down the wet and cold road.  Once we reach the campground, a good twenty miles down the way, I get out and start chatting with the lady at the desk.  they have dry wood for sale(a total necessity as it is supposed to drop well below freezing this night), and the price was decent for a spot.  Once I pay and go back out to the truck, Lauren opens the door, and who we will now call Pretty Ricky and Shiva, say we should just stay with them.  This goes back to what I had made mention of earlier.  You can’t just strike up a conversation with “Seriously, my girlfriend and I are studs, and we help people!” and expect them take you seriously.  After having been in the truck with Pretty Ricky and Shiva for what was creepin’ over a half an hour, Lauren had got to the point where she was a first year med student and I was almost halfway through my M.B.A., but enough time had elapsed now to where we had some credibility beyond just being to drifters on bikes.  This conversation breed more interesting news as Shiva had a Ph.D in some sort of tree science/forestry service; forgive me my lack of memory.  On our way up to their house they also mention that Shiva owns, in conjunction with the house, an amazing amount of property that she has sanctioned for re-forestation, and has this immense tree and land management project going on.  Once we arrive I realize that there is enough beauty and wild life here to inspire aw in the most dull of folks, and enough O2 being produced for an entire city to thank her for her efforts.  It was almost bewildering the views and serenity that this woman possessed.  Once we get all the way to the house, they mention we should take some four-wheelers and crest the top of the mountain and then they will cook us some dinner.  Yes, and yes.

Now, at this point, as Lauren and I are on a mule-four wheeler, with Shiva and Pretty Ricky on their own ATV’s, blundering up this amazingly steep and beautiful mountain scape, I start to beg the question… What a series of events that hath led us to here.  Wrapped up in an abundance of warm clothing provided by Pretty Ricky and Shiva, driving this beast of an off-roading machine, next to this amazing women, going up this simply stunning landscape, what made this happen?  If my dear Alison hand’t purchased us the tickets to go to Chicago via Amtrak, would we have been there?  What about if Nurse Betty and Marty hadn’t have trekked us from Mountain Home, and then three days later into Oregon?  If our friends in Van Tassel hand’t pulled us out of the hail storm, would we have had the opportunity to be pulled out of this hail storm by these two?  It seems in the thought of probability, the answer would be no, and what a shame that would have been.  A damned shame.

Once we get to the top of Shiva’s mountain, as it will forever be known by me, we see a gorgeous doe by her lonesome as she takes a moment to admire us, and we return the gesture.  A short hike out through the wild growth brings us onto a bald where we can see out for what must have been over sixty miles with all sorts of beautiful hill tops and geographic discrepancies to ponder upon.  This offered another opportunity to see, and this time two at once, different storms way off in the distance.  As I watch the rain pour by the thousands of gallons down from 10,000feet, I can only picture myself and Lauren pedaling ourselves through God’s gift of hydration with venom in our mouths and overwhelming frustration teeming from our beings.  My, oh my, what a difference perspective can put on your mood.  Appreciation of what is, acceptance of the same, and the power of wisdom to allow this moment to happen.  I still get cold chills thinking of this moment in spirituality. 

On the way down the mountain we came across some pretty vicious sleet, but having the piece of mind where we were going to and sleeping in heat made this a laughable situation.  The pelting still invoked a sting, but merely temporary given the gift of certainty.  The dining room heated by wood heat, naturally, dinner is phenomenal, and Pretty Ricky makes mention of needing to visit his grand-daughter in Pendleton Oregon and would like to drive us to this desert town.  Here we go again. 

Some of the driving that Pretty Ricky took us through was beyond beautiful.  It’s hard to keep the interest up when describing landscapes, and it can become even harder to do any one place justice because eventually, you are just comparing apples to oranges.  These views were peaches, and boy I’ll tell ya, I love me some peaches.  The trend of twenty miles being the max distance of one geographic type in this north western myriad holds true.  We were at Shiva’s surrounded by trees and mountains and clearly elevated some thousand feet above the floor we were looking down unto, and as we eased onto the floor the trees disappeared, and the drought crept in.  The plight of the desert, as depressing as it could be to this North Carolinian, hailing from a place where you can drink from a stream and being nearly surrounded by rivers for my short stint on this earth, it stills holds an amazing serenity that lushness will not provide.  I’m not sure if I find deserts more captivating because I was raised in the land of plenty, or if deserts really are just that badass, but I love being in them.  Perhaps the excitements is fueled by the fear of uncertainty of not knowing if there really is food or water.  I love the desert though.  Do not remove me from my roots, but the appreciation is definitely there. 

We have a host set up for warmshowers in Pendleton, more comfort, and Lauren finally decides that she is going to have some tests run in efforts to rid herself of the burden of whatever is ailing internal organs. This did not come easily.  Lauren, who at current does not possess an insurance policy that would make it affordable for her to go to a clinic to see about what is going on.  I have an idea, and a more absurd idea than anything I would have proposed on my own had the situation not allowed itself to go as long and as far as it had, and this is where you have to ask yourself whether something was a good idea or not.  I will go ahead and let you know something; if you ever have to ask yourself this question, you already know what the answer is…  NOT A GOOD IDEA.  I’m thinkin’ to myself “Dawg, you got an opportunity to do something that will really help your girlfriend out, and it has the potential to make you look like a king.  This is definitely a good idea.”  Doofus.

“Hey, I know that you’re uncomfortable, and I’ve got an idea on how to remedy that.”

“Go ahead…” she insists. 

Three hours later I find myself in a doctors office, explaining to him about how on my trip to South East Asia I had picked up some sort of parasite, who was baffled.  Poking and prodding my stomach and listening with intent through his stethoscope he sighs, following with

“I just can’t believe it, Jordan.”

“What’s that, doc?”

“I just don’t…  I’ve never…  I can’t…”

“Hey man, you got me scared now.  What’s up?”

“It’s just the strangest thing.  I don’t hear anything.  I can’t even tell that you have any issue at all in there.”

Ain’t that a bitch?  Anyways, I find myself with a plastic container to shit in, well, for Lauren to go in, and hopefully put an end to this discomfort after a rather uncomfortable screening.  My blood pressure was something along the lines of 148/129 and my heart rate was almost 130bpm.  The fact that I was practically lying probably made my system go into over drive.  As soon as I get back into the waiting room, I sit down next to Lauren for about two seconds, and she looks at me and says…

“I can’t do it.”

“You can’t do what? Shit in the container?”

“No, I can’t lie.”  We’ll at least someone had their head on their shoulders.  She earned some serious cool points, although I did spend the next thirty minutes just boiling in my skin because I had waited for who knows how long in the waiting room, waited in the examination room, told a pretty damn believable story to the doctor, got my shit pot, and was ready to give it to the girlfriend.  At least I got my vitals checked and didn’t actually commit any type of insurance fraud.  Lauren went in the next day and got a nice, new pot of her own and submitted a subject for testing.  What a world we live in.

The morning was rather rushed the next day, as we had to submit Lauren’s subject, and then hit the road with our host in Pendleton’s swim team and coach, as they were heading all the way into Washington state to a place called Pasco.  Pasco is part of a tri-cities conglomerate, made of Richland, Pasco, and Kennewick.  A budding trifecta of commerce in the middle of the high desert.  It’s hot.  It’s dry.  It is rather unkind(as far as Mother Nature is concerned; the people were nice).  On the other hand, it isn’t humid.  On our drive up from Pendleton to Pasco, almost an hour and twenty minutes, we witnessed a Benz that had lost it’s bike rack with two bikes crumpled across the interstate, and we also saw the ever interesting Umatilla Chemical Weapons Depot.  It was a rather eerie sight; dirt hills covering bunkers where tons upon tons of chemical weapons are stored post destruction.  The concept of after having destroyed something, placing it in a large, very thick walled metal container, and then burying it in a multiple thousand ton earthen grave, makes me question whether or not you have actually destroyed it or not.  However, the fact that it was stored in such a close proximity to the Umatilla River, as well as the Columbia River, must mean that there is no cause for concern… Right?.?.?.?  I mean, right?

Once we got to Pasco, we called who was supposed to be our host to let him know that we had actually found a ride to Pasco, and thus were going to continue on North.  We had picked out a campground at a place called Priest Rapids Dam, and that is where we were heading, right at sixty miles away.  Once we got to Pasco we sat for some lunch on the sidewalk before pedaling on our first journey in Washington State.  I was very excited to be in Washington because 1. my brother lived in Seattle for some odd years just shy of a decade, thus giving me a bit of ease of feeling familiar with a place that I had no clue about, and 2. because from everything that I had gathered over the course of my life, North Carolina and Washington state have a lot in common in terms of culture, landscape, temperature, etc.  Right now I’m not seeing too much of the similarity, as although there is some desert territory in NC, nothing as vast as what I’ve been looking at for the past few days and into now. 

And desert it was.  A first everything felt right.  Low humidity, a cooling breeze, and a lot of bike paths on the Columbia River.  Almost twelve miles of our day was spent on the Columbia and it’s network of bike paths.  At one point, Lauren stops to check some directions or drink water or something of the sort, and I pause just behind her.  As soon as I stop I hear something.  It sounds familiar but I can’t quit pick it out.  Once my heart rate starts to come down and my focus to my surroundings elevates, the sounds become more clear.  It’s a voice, female.  I can’t yet tell if it is the sounds of struggle, song, or exactly what I was hearing.  Once my clarity continues to increase and what was barely audible resounds, I notice it is the sound of a woman in what is nearing a climax.  I look around, rather confused as to how the audibility of this orgasm is so clear, and see there is a car just shy of twenty yards away from us, and it has its very tight shocks swaying back and forth very quickly.  Lauren hans’t quite caught onto to what I’ve noticed yet, so I tell her we need to go a bit further down the bike trail.

“Why?” she says, unsure of my insistence of going a bit further.

“Just like a few hundred more yards.”

“What’s wrong with here?”  She’s got a point.  The river was nice, the breeze was heavy.

“We just have to go a few hundred more yards.”  At this point I’m positive to her being oblivious to the moment.

“Lauren, there are people fucking right beside us.  I’d appreciate the privacy if I were in there position.” As i see this, I can see the woman’s leg sticking up in the transparency of the rear window. 

“What?” Lauren says, more of disbelief of my statement than a lack of understanding.

“There are two people in that car, hard fucking.  I wouldn’t want any one where we are if I were hard fucking.”  and we get on the bikes and roll on another two hundred yards.  This was good, because there was a public restroom there, but was still a funny spot to be, as we had looped around a docking area on the river, bringing us to a view of the hard fuckers and their car.  They had no clue of us, and we had no clear view of them, so I think both parties came out ahead.  Actually, I know both parties came out ahead.  Welcome to Washington!

Once we get off of the Columbia River and press farther and farther away from it the heat grows, and things become more interesting in terms of hardship.  Head winds, go figure, and a bit of uncertainty.  The uncertainty came from not knowing what to expect as far as convenience stores, food, and the like.  This was definitely desert, and judging from the map we had what looked to be thirty or forty miles to a gas station.  Once we get on our way, we come to a fork in the road, of sorts.  Lauren’s gps has us going one way.  My fully charged and trusty smart phone has us going another way.  My way appears to be nearly two miles shorter, and for us with the amount of weight we are carrying, two miles is a long way.  Lauren, rather uncertain of my navigation, decides to just go with it.  I’ve got the reigns and I am ready to lead this horse and buggy safely in the right direction.  I mean, let’s get real; I’m a guy.

Once we get a little ways down my path there is a sign that says no outlet.  I recheck the gps and it clearly says that this connects to the road we need to be on.  This is further strengthened by the string of cars that just went by us, one of them a highway patrol, and we can see a parking lot.  We had just passed the Pacific Northwest National Laboratory.  “PNNL scientists conduct basic and applied research and development to strengthen U.S. scientific foundations for fundamental research and innovation; prevent and counter acts of terrorism through applied research ininformation analysis, cyber security, and the nonproliferation of weapons of mass destruction; increase the U.S. energy capacity and reduce dependence on imported oil; and reduce the effects of human activity on the environment. PNNL has been operated by Battelle Memorial Institute since 1965.”  That’s from Wikipedia.  It also says it employs 4,200 people.  One thing I noticed about the lot that we passed was that the highway patrolman was not in the lot, nor had he came back passed us, clearly signifying the exit ahead.  We proceeded, the pavement started to crack, and we realized that road maintenance was not something that was done here.  A little further and we see signs that clearly state things about “not going off of the pavement” and “risk of injury or death” and “trespassers will be punished under federal law”.  A few of these different warnings and you will get the heeby-jeebies.  Farther still and the road has stop sign erected on what is the barely visible double yellow line.  The odd thing about it is that the stop signs are facing both ways, as if you were coming from the other direction, you would encounter the same advisory.  These were at the very top of a hill, and from this vantage point I could see the road that we are trying to get to, and also that our road snakes on towards that road.  After a short conversation about the situation as it stands, and two middle of the road pee-breaks(how often do you and your girl get to piss on a double yellow?) we continue towards the visible destination.  About two hundred yards shy of the main highway the pavement turns into what appears to be some sort of earthquake or explosion aftermath and rubble.  I can feel Lauren’s frustration with the given situation, but her reaction is surprisingly light hearted.  I had expected a bit more of a reaming, but I can only imagine at this point that we are so over the current situation that this ends up being humorous.  I try to pedal as far as I can before I fall over on the jagged black top, and Lauren doesn’t even fuck around with trying to traverse it in her clip-less(that means they clip) shoes.  Once we pass the rumble we get to a huge sand bar used to block traffic from coming in.  Had this been on the other side we would have known not to come down this way.  I am glad that we did, though, as it was a more memorable stretch of road due to the situation and views.  It felt like a nuclear test could go at any moment for the entire stretch, and you are certain that government and mafia alike have both disposed of numerous bodies on this road.  There is no validity or causality for my previous comments, but the road did invoke those feelings. 

On the main road we press on in the heat with nothing to view.  Two lane road, wide shoulders, and lots of milage to go, we crank up the tunes and continue on.  After twelve or so miles the shoulders disappear and the road just turns into a two lane, relatively flat, wind ridden dessert road.  At one point we saw what I would call a dirt devil, but it was comprised of over fifty bunches of tumble weed.  We laughed near hysteria as this super intimidating vortex of dust and branches bobbed up and down beside us.  It shifted towards us and we somehow made it through without any injury.  I was struck in the leg by one of the tumble weeds, and I saw one pass within a foot of my face, and saw one pass inches above Lauren’s head.  It was really cool to experience. 

Proceeding down the two lane I start to take note of how the license plates have almost all shifted to Washington State tags.  Again, this is comforting to me for some reason.  Like anything that is good, though, someone can ruin it.  As  this thought of comfort and happiness passes through my head a couple jerks pull beside us shouting some obscenities before howling down the road.  I’ll never understand it.  I just don’t know how too.  I don’t even think I could be taught how to understand it.

We, after much aggravation from the elements and the distance, reach what we had hoped to be the junction where there had to be some sort of gas station.  Not the case.  It was an entry gate for what is known as the Hanford Site.  “The Hanford Site is a mostly decommissioned nuclear production complex operated by the United States federal government on the Columbia River in the U.S. state of Washington. The site has been known by many names, including: Hanford Project, Hanford Works, Hanford Engineer Works or HEW and Hanford Nuclear Reservation or HNR. Established in 1943 as part of the Manhattan Project in the town of Hanford in south-central Washington, the site was home to the B Reactor, the first full-scale plutonium production reactor in the world.[1] Plutonium manufactured at the site was used in the first nuclear bomb, tested at the Trinity site, and in Fat Man, the bomb detonated over Nagasaki, Japan.” More Wikipedia.  We were running beyond low on water at this point, and Lauren was showing signs of heat issues.  She has had a history of having various issues arise as a result of prolonged heat and sun exposure.  These issues were beginning to express.  I go up to the gate and chat with a nice soldier for a minute.  He was almost as clueless about the area as I was, but was able to hook us up some pretty cold H2O. 

We keep heading towards Priest Rapids Damn, have another pretty neat and long down hill to the Columbia River.  There is a rest stop.  We both have our fingers crossed for a ride.  After spending some time there we realize it is not going to work.  I chat with a nice Hispanic guy in a moving truck.  He had made the mistake of tellin’ me he was going the same direction as we were, but immediately switched his story as it was clear he did not feel comfortable toting us down the right way.  We start to pedal on, the sun gets low, and the landscape becomes another spectacle.  On the left, anywhere from 2,500-3,000foot mountain and cliff faces drop into the river.  On the right, flat, ground.  After a few miles the flat ground turned into what became the most impressive tree farm I’ve ever seen, in terms of size. 

There was an odd occurrence here, one that still has no explanation and nothing that I have figured out.  Bugs; millions of them.  Huge, hard, black bugs that could jump up to the handle bars.  We were unsure if they could hurt us or not; they never did, but stopping to see if they could aim better if we weren’t moving at twelve or thirteen miles an hour was not on our to do list.  It reminded me of the shitty Kevin Bacon movie, Tremors, but for nearly two miles we were pedaling more intently than we had the entire day.  “Just don’t let on of those lil’ fuckers get ya.” was all I could think.  Millions and millions of the jumpy, clicky sounding things.  That’s all I know.

Once we get to the campsite, after having navigated miles of tree farms and asking seasonal migrant workers who had just got there the same week and had no clue what we were talking about, we realize that we are in a really sweet spot.  Three nice chaps are in the first campsite, and they invite us back for some beer and food, as they have the full set up.  Campers, grills, fridges, stand up jet skis; you name it.  They had actually came down to do some stand up jet-skiing.  They usually go to the lake further north, but some excavation crew had came across some human remains that dated thousands of years back, so since it was on an Indian Reservation, the reservation was in a legal bout about who the bones belonged to. Of course the reservation wanted them for historical value and some testing to see what sort of tales these old bones could conjure up, and for whatever dumb fuckin’ reason(perhaps I don’t know the entire story) the state wanted to claim the rights to them.  Regardless, they, both parties, had agreed to and drained the entire lake to look for more remains, forcing our new friends to come further down the river to where we currently will rest our heads. 

As the night went on it was good times.  Two of the guys were great; some chaps I could totally see myself hanging with on a normal basis.  They were a good bit older, nearing their late forties, but I am well old enough no to 1, know that age has no discrimination on a good time, and 2, enjoy myself in almost every situation.  The other one of the three; well he was a bit more awkward.  He fell in love with Lauren at first site and it was pretty entertaining to watch him try to cater to and go above and beyond what may have been necessary to help her/us out.  He was a computer geek.  His friends often referred to his quirkiness, also referring to how he was one of the originals in Silicon Valley, and he had made a fortune working for Microsoft at the right time.  This was amplified by the fact that he had a freakish resemblence to Bill Gates, and if I didn’t know any better, it might have well been him.  One of the guys sold yachts, and the other; hell, I’d be a liar to pretend that I could remember.  Either way, all in all we had a great time hanging with these guys.  They were heading the next day to Idaho to a lake to do more stand up jet skiing. Idaho was beautiful, and from what information these dudes had to offer, we went through the ugliest part of the state, and the farther north you went in the state, the better it got.  I will definitely be going back someday.

After a few beers, some chicken wings hooked up by our new pals, and a pretty amazing amount of wind through out the night to keep us cradled to sleep in our tent.  It was rather enjoyable.  Next step; figure out how to get to Seattle and get Lauren fitted to end the recurring knee pain.

Into and Through Idaho

IMG_0684 IMG_0686 IMG_0689 IMG_0687 IMG_0694 IMG_0696 IMG_0697 IMG_0705 IMG_0706 IMG_0711 IMG_0712 IMG_0714 IMG_0719 IMG_0717 IMG_0722 IMG_0723 IMG_0724 IMG_0726 IMG_0727 IMG_0733 IMG_0734 IMG_0736

 

Into and Through Idaho

It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial.  This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended.  My family, I know you’ll still love me.  My friends, the same.  Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will.  Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me.  God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

We get back to Jackson and plan out the next few days.  We have reached an overwhelming conclusion at this point… Lauren still has worms.  Contracted in Southeast Asia, there are visible ruminants of worms coming out of her body, and both of us can barely stand to be around each other sometimes because our combined flatulence stinks so bad that it makes our nose hairs burn.  And I’m not talking about just a warm tingle, I’m talking about your nostril hair catching on fire, and then smelling of roasted hair.  Although this is impossible, it really isn’t that far fetched. 

We make the decision to call around to some clinics and see about getting tested for parasites.  We contact a friend of ours who is a doctor, we call a specialist who studied diarrhea in Nepal for 12 or 13 years.  We talked to a P.A..  We were left with only one conclusion-no body really knows what the fuck they are talking about.  Perhaps they do, but no ones story matched up with the others, they all had their own opinions that differed, and Lauren was left with the uncomfortable feeling of bloating and sporadic dooky that have really been plaguing her for months.  I haven’t mentioned it too much yet, but the worms have been an ongoing issue, as was both of our collective stinkiness. 

It’s not fair to say that no one really knew what they were talking about.  They all had validity in their prognosis and predictions.  It’s easy to become frustrated when there is no immediate cure of the issues at hand, but indeed, they were all right to some capacity.  Lauren received some giardia medication and we were on our path to some sort of relief.  Hopefully.

What you can’t be relieved from is stupidity.  I often like to quote a dear friend of mine who often says “Momma drowned the stupid kids.”  I’d like to think that there is some truth to that, but sometimes you just can’t keep your mouth shut.  What I am referring too was painfully obvious after I realized my mistake.  I had made some jokes throughout the course of our trip about “Mormon Grass”.  My buddies(naysayers) went on this epic journey and had concluded that Mormon’s had the best grass in the country, and possibly the world.  The jokes about Mormons do not stop about how well manicured their lawns are either.  That’s were my idiocy takes me into mistakesville.  We had heard that we were heading into Mormon Country a few different times as we come into the western end of Wyoming and Idaho.  I thought Mormonism was concentrated to Utah for the most part.  I have revealed my ignorance.  I knew a few Mormons back in NC, but they were a rare denomination. 

Brigham Young University, Mormon, is in Idaho, almost on the border of Wyoming and Idaho.  There is a strong presence.  At a house when hearing of these types of religious practices, I make a small joke with no ill intent, just to be kinda funny.

“Aw, man.  I had no clue there were so many Mormons outside of Utah.  I didn’t even know polygamy was lawful in those states.” I stupidly remark.

“Not all Mormons practice or even support polygamy.” is uttered back in a very short, deliberate, and direct response. 

As soon as that transaction is completed I notice wedding photos of people dressed like pilgrims.  Perhaps this is more ignorance spewing from my big dumb mouth, but this might be common dress for this type of ceremony.  I am an idiot.

We are now in route to meet our host for the next night in Jackson.  He and his wife had business in Jackson this day and his wife was going to take some of our bags for us in the car, and he is going to ride his bike with us over Teton Pass; our second crossing of the Western Continental Divide.  We start our journey after picking up Lauren’s meds, and me picking up a new charging unit that allows Lauren and I to plug up devices on stored battery power.  This will be an amazing addition to our gear as my phone has officially joined the ranks of defunct, and Lauren’s frustration towards being the only navigator as my phone is constantly dead, is nearing violent proportions. 

It’s been almost a month now that my phone has been relentlessly problematic after we are more than two hours away from an outlet.  It started in Illinois and we are about to hit Idaho.  I didn’t even know this type of thing existed, so one could only imagine my excitement when I found out that there would be no excuse as to why my phone should be dead and I could start contributing to the route planning.  Not too mention, I am a huge pleaser; it is inherent in my being to try and please at all cost, so when Lauren becomes frustrated at the necessity of routing and planning, I become personal saddened by my inability to contribute and feel like I am completely letting her down.  It is my goal on this trip to facilitate the easiest transition possible from the east to the west coast, and I am failing at this every time she becomes frustrated with the lack of involvement in the process.  So far it has been the only thing that we’ve had an argument about.  She says that she doesn’t like being the only one making decisions, and I say “about what?  Left versus right? We should go right.”  Not the right answer, apparently.  Every time we have this conversation I feel as though she is burning a whole through my chest with her brain and telepathic abilities.  She doesn’t really have telepathy, that I know of, but if feels like someone has a voodoo doll of me and is holding a lighter to my chest.  This slight burning is only compounded by the aggravation that she displays towards people who are jackasses on the road ways.  The great news?  I bought a simple device that should eliminate all of these growing pains.  Score.

So we meet the new host; a very cool guy with a large downhill mountain bike, and he leads on our journey across the divide once more.  This is great because it has removed our thinking and need of directions.  This is also going to be an easy day despite the climb because we are only going twenty four miles.  This is also awesome for us because now Lauren has a three day cycle of giardia medicine and there is a chance it is not going to be kind to her digestive systems.  This is a great opportunity to point out again the strength that this woman possesses.  She has felt like shit, figurative and literal, for months and still forces on this journey that she has set out.  But not just going with the motions, but commanding the journey physically, as she has beat my ass on every hill and mountain of the trip, except the last one, which I did better than her, as she was under the influence of altitude sickness.  Yay for me.

This Teton Pass is higher and steeper than Togwhatee Pass, but Togwhatee was about twice as long.  It’s all relative.  The one measurable relativity here is the subtraction of all of our weight.  I’ve got one bag with some snacks and Lauren is relieved of all of her burden.  We were told by many to go across the old pass, as it is easier and more scenic.  Luckily our new host and temporary guide has informed us that the old pass, although having the benefit of having zero cars on it, will still be covered with many feet of snow towards the top and be impossible to pass.   Had he not provided us this insight we would have been left to the instructions of those that were unaware of its current condition, and would thus have been screwed.  As we come to the top of the pass we see that this is true.  There was a kick ass sign that said 10% grade next 3 miles, which was super awesome from a physical accomplishment stand point.  There was also an informational kiosk that our host, now known as Simmons, informed us is near ten feet tall, and all you can see is a mere corner of the tip top of the roof sticking above the snow.  As we had a break from the wind with the mountain in front of us, and we were pedaling up hill, there was a bit of body warmth built up and no jackets were required.  Once we get to the top we pause for a few pictures and soon realize that it is barely above thirty degrees and twenty mile an hours winds pierce the clothing that we scramble to put on. 

Begin the downhill into Idaho.  I haven’t really been too afraid on the bike yet.  That ends very soon.  As we blow across this ridiculously long and steep decent on the western continental divide I realize that collectively we are surpassing the speeds of cars in our lane as we creep up on automobiles.  I love this type of stuff; double black diamond tested, handrail grinder, downhill speed freak.  I have been an action sports enthusiast my entire life.  These moments are even with the scariest I’ve had. 

I have been enjoying my $6 Dollar General brand glasses I had picked up in Iowa.  They were of nearly no aid when speeds crept up to forty miles per hour.  As the speeds increased the opposing winds became more fierce, and I felt my contacts start to slide up my corneas.  If you use corrective vision then you have a full understand of my current predicament.  This is scary shit.  I slowly ease both of my breaks, aim a straight course, and take turns squinting and closing my eyes hoping that the wind hasn’t completely dried out my tear ducts.  My life is solely dependent upon the ability of my large, goofy shaped head to produce just enough tear water to keep my lenses lubricated enough to adhere to just enough surface area to not crisp up and fly completely out of my sockets.  I couldn’t drive without corrective lenses.  I couldn’t walk without corrective lenses.  Hell, just over one hundred years ago my vision would have rendered me dead at the hands of natural selection given my social status and geographical upbringing/conception spot.  As Lauren and Simmons disappear around the turns I accept that my bitch ass is going to slow down to a point where the wind is forcing my eyes to lock up.  Pretty disappointing.

There is light on the situation however.  As I round out about mile 6 of our downhill I see Lauren and Simmons posted up on the shoulder in front of the Idaho state crossing sign.  I pull over and he informs me that there is about two miles of single track right here if we are interested.  Lauren is not.  I couldn’t think of anything more awesome at the moment.  Lauren takes the one bag that I brought off of my rack for me and continues down the highway.  Simmons and I head of into the woods. 

Keep in mind that I have drop bars, bar ends shifter, and Shwalbe Big Apples(a very comfortable ballon of a tire, still donning flat tread patterns)  Single track is not the easiest thing with this set up but I have a firm trust in my balance, skill, and ability to read upcoming terrain to handle these types of situations.  I prove myself well for the first mile.  At the halfway point of this super steep, rugged, and root ridden bicycle path the rain starts to pour down.  My tires are definitely not made to handle this sort of things, changing gears becomes not an option as the decent becomes steeper with more berms, and I start falling over again and again regardless of what my conception of my skill and ability was.  When we finally emerged from the bottom of the trail back onto the road I looked at Simmons and proclaimed “This is the best fuckin’ two miles of the trip yet.”  Despite my inability to keep the rubber on the trail and my shoulders out of the mud puddles this was undoubtedly the most enjoyable part of the actual cycling yet.  What better way to end this amazing climb, downhill, single track, and the actually flat valley floor of Victor, Idaho?  Simmons advocates stopping at Grand Teton Brewing Company as it is on the way, and only two or three miles from his house.  We are wet.  We are cold.  The air temperature is still rather cold and there is almost nothing better to me than the taste of some of the fine beers provide by the tender at this spot.  A spot on recommendation indeed. 

Simmons has to stop and vote on our way in, and suggest we go on ahead of him.  When we get to his house we are amazed with the view and quality of he and his wife’s pad.  Being a retired investor must have awarded him well as the aesthetics of their spot on the planet was near dreamy.  Best sleep of the trip yet happened here.

Lauren and I were grateful that we had decided to only pedal to Victor because that shortened our journey to Idaho Falls, which would have ended up being a nearly 90mile day with the western divide added in.  Western divide knocked out, and the trip to Idaho falls drops to just over sixty miles.  There is a rather large pass, but nothing in comparison to Teton Pass.  At Simmons house he was also hosting a couch surfer. She was rather interesting and on a campaign around the nation were she gave speeches to uplift people.  Seemed decently lucrative but meeting her gave Lauren and I an opportunity to really check out the Couch Surfing set up and become a part of it.  This is also how we booked our night in Idaho Falls as there were not any Warm Showers hosts for over a hundred miles. 

We head off and tackle the large pass then begin to descend on what ends up being the longest downhill of the trip.  It seemed to go on forever; manageable, gentle, and easy.  Even on our fourteen mile descents there were some uphills here and there, but this amazing downhill was one were you could ride almost the entire hill without ever needing to brake and just cruise at 22mph or so.  There must be a large elevation difference between the valley floor of Victor and where a small, absolutely beautiful town called Swan Valley is.  As we continued down the hill the view scape only opened up more and more.  At one point, just before where Swan Valley started, it seemed as though we were going to drive straight off a huge cliff face, and then we would gently roll into the valley floor next to the beautiful Snake River. 

We stopped at a little restaurant across from a convenience store and had an amazing burger.  It was huge, the fries were perfect, the coffee was great.  We both ate so much at this place that we had to take a little nap at our outside table in the sun.  One of the things with biking is that you are in relentless sun exposure, but at this moment the world was right.  We spent roughly an hour and a half at this little restaurant before continuing our journey on towards Idaho Falls. 

This stretch through Idaho ends up being some of the most beautiful terrain in the U.S.  Idaho changes terrain types roughly ever twenty miles it seemed, and we were constantly greeted with new views to appreciate on the ride.  Idaho is sparsely populated so the traffic was near none, the temperature was an enjoyable upper 60’s, and the wind was more or less cooperating.  An interesting thing about this state is that it is the most irrigated state in the country, at least as far as I can see.  For the most part everything is lush green.  Lush fails in comparison to NC, as we have thick woods and trees, where as Idaho has seemed more open, but it was so wonderfully green after having been through the great plains and the dessert of Wyoming.  Something else interesting; no potatoes.  I remember sitting in Carbondale Illinois with my dear friend Alison and her at the time fiance/now husband, and saying something like “Have you ever seen a map of Idaho?  It’s covered in green(signifying mountains and parks).  Where the hell they supposed to plant the damn potatoes?”  I didn’t realize the validity of this question when I said it a month or so prior.  Saw farm land, but not a single potato.  There is more state to go though.

Once we start to get towards Idaho falls the population goes up, the traffic goes up, and it appears a storm is rolling in.  We get to our Couch Surfing guests house just in time to avoid the rain.  It must be known that people in North Carolina are nice.  Southern hospitality is something that teems from the hills to the ocean, usually, and it is something that I make a point to try and over exaggerate to people who are not from NC in a strong effort to make them realize how people should act as representatives of their upbringings ad home states.  These folks in Idaho Falls where the nicest people I’ve met.  Sure, I’ve met plenty of folks who were all nice, but these people were too nice.  Almost made ya wonder why.  Well come to find out the answer relies in religion.  These Mormons were so kind.  Okay, all my ragging of Mormonism has halted, because regardless of how much I disagree with so much of what the religion states, their followers all seem to truly believe, put an amazing amount of faith in their creation and existence, and spew kindness from all of their being.  On the other end of that, they are preppers.  Like, reality TV quality, really preparing for the shit to hit the fan, doomsday preppers.   Apparently it has something to do with the teachings of their scripture, and they all prepare for the coming of times.  Thoroughly at that. 

The man of the house took me to the grocery store where we picked up some provisions for the coming journey, which appears to have one hundred plus miles with no grocer, convenience store, or anything of the like.  He also purchases a bright orange flag that he and I rig up to stick off of Lauren’s bike horizontally, and reaching our three foot to the left so that people will be forced to get over just bit further than usual.  Solid idea.  We have an amazing dinner and after loading some laundry we hit the hay. 

I wake up in the morning and throw the clothes in the drier, and this is when I saw it.  I looked to my left and then to my right.  Shelves that wrapped all the way around this 50by15ft basement room completely stocked with food, mostly canned goods, and in the center of the room, stacks of five gallon buckets filled with various dried beans, preserved fruits, and a myriad of other food items stored in these buckets.  I counted well over 200 of these buckets stacked in the center of the room.  I wasn’t passing judgment condescendingly, but rather just baffled that people really spend that much time and effort, not to mention money in organizing and preparing for impending doom.  It was amazing.  This is paired with the fact that the man of the house owns a preppers store.  He runs the shindig, and there must be a large market for it in Idaho, as he noted that he does pretty well.   

These super nice folks had offered to take us a few miles out of town, which ended up turning into nearly forty miles.  Awesome, ‘cause we were planning on seventy five to make it to a place called Craters of the Moon to camp for the night.  They dropped us off outside of a huge conglomerate of nuclear test facilities and research and development compounds.  There was a lake just out of view for us that supposedly was the test lake for the worlds first nuclear submarine.  Submarine testing in Idaho; go  figure.

The views are tall mountains covered in snow, the wind is slightly against us, but our ride distance has been drastically reduced.  We push on, and I notice that Lauren is consistently falling back, and this is totally unusual since she leaves me in the dust most of the time.  A rather unfortunate situation as 1. you don’t want your teammate and companion to feel bad, and 2.  I felt like a fuckin’ bawse.  This is her final day of giardia medication and it appears to be wearing on her at this point.  We contact our host in Fairfield, two days out, and let them know that we might be showing up today as we are going to try and hitch hike in.  We chill in Arco for a couple hours asking nearly every one with a capable vehicle if they would be willing to help us out.  This doesn’t work out for us.  Hitch hiking has been very successful for us thus far, but there has to be a first time for everything.  It seems that our story has high credibility with folks and they are more trusting of us than one would initially think.  The fact that we have a guy and a girl is in our favor.  Whether or not people choose to believe that I’m in grad school and Lauren is starting a medical program seems to be the main determining factor a lot of times, however it is also hard to get to that point of a conversation quickly.  It is pretty awkward to just blurt “Hello! My girlfriend and I are great people and we want you to take us somewhere!”  Shit doesn’t work like that.  After we accept our failure we push on.  Regulators, mount up. 

As we creep down the road I receive a phone call from the host in Fairfield and he states that his wife is going to get off of work a few early and head our way.  We are under the sneaky suspicion that our story has lent us to looking weak and vulnerable.  Lauren and I have a quick conversation after hanging up the phone and decide that we need to call them and reiterate that things are fine and there is no immediate danger, after all we were hoping to get to Fairfield out of convenience and definitely not at the cost of someone else’s inconvenience.  After making this clear beyond a reasonable doubt, she decides that she still want sot come and get us.

We were pretty damned excited about camping at the Craters of the Moon.  Although Lauren was a bit uncomfortable, the Craters of the Moon campground looked like it had some really unique looking terrain to be surrounded by while you drift into slumber land. It may have been a bit hard, as the landscape for nearly one hundred square miles is all brought about by the spreading of lava from various porous vents that allow the Earth’s inner core to spew out; these event are past tense as there is currently no spewing lava, however there are still some vents that allow for the leak of geothermal heat, and these make for some interesting hot springs.

As our landscape shifts to this amazing moon-like crater-esque, rock hard terrain, our new host pulls up to give us a lift.  We stop with here at the Craters of the Moon main lookout and take a few pictures, which will of course, never do this space any justice.  We stop at a hot spring to check out this type of natural wonder.  Crystal clear waters spark a bit of wonder in my mind and these pools were not only transparent, but their floors were comprised of mysterious colors of yellow and blue.  I slipped into one pond, only submerging up to just above my one shin, and the water was of a temperature that I could barely notice my foot was wet.  It was wild not just for this reason but also because we have had to have jackets on for most of the day as the winds were slicing through our jackets and cooling our skin.  I figured given these circumstances that I would have felt the temperature change more.  Perhaps I would have noticed it more if I closer to some of the vents that were constantly bubbling, or even the center of the pool.

Curls, as she is now known, takes us to show us a farm where she works sometimes and then we proceed on into Fairfield.  Idaho continues to amaze me as it really is a completely different landscape every twenty miles.  The views are inspirational, the air feels clean, and the niceness of folks continues to aid our spirits.  Although there are many amazing things about what we have seen, I must revert back to the fact that prevailing winds, cool temperatures and overall extremes in weather can dampen the spirit.  In addition worms/giardia, or the lactose intolerance are having a poor effect, not to mention the fact that we are both pedaling around 100-115#’s of gear, plus our body weight, compounded with the fact that we are pretty much required to go far distances to keep from stealth camping(trespassing) on someone’s property is putting a lot of stress on the two of us.  The fact that Curls was willing to come and get us was a great occurrence despite not getting to camp at the Craters of the Moon.  We decide that we would utilize our covering of an extra day via her generosity will be spent resting.  This deal is sweetened when we find out that she and her husband have a completely separate house where we can recharge our batteries for two nights in solitude.  We enjoy the company, but at this point of the trip we feel like we are turning into broken records or sound bites emitting the same response when tantalized with the same questions.  A spare house is a welcome amenity.

We get to the house and there is a DVD player and about eight DVDs, and otherwise normal house stuff; pots, pans, fridge, bathroom, bed.  You get the idea.  After stopping to pick up some grub and cooking dinner plus the obligatory shower, Lauren advocates watching a movie and I concur.  This is a rare thing for me.  I don’t watch movies often, and never watch TV.  As of July, 2014, the last movie I had seen in the theaters was Avatar when it came out, of which I was disappointed in the allocation of those dollars.  I just can’t really do the whole sitting still for that long thing.  The legend of Bagger Vance is the film, and Lauren passes out at a point where my interest is heightened.  She goes to bed and I finish the film myself.  I had an itch earlier that day, and I wanted to just chill at a bar, have a couple beers, and be around people for a while.  This itch turned into homesickness and I spent the next few hours in a dark room where a streetlight streaming through white curtains illuminated the far wall.  I’ve never been homesick before, and the fact that I didn’t want to be homesick only made it worse.  In general I just missed everything about being in North Carolina.  I am surrounded by ever changing beauty with an mazing person, and I’m homesick.  Wallowing in my own emotions I lay flat on my bike with hands on my chest for a few hours, letting the emotion turn into an itch, and just as the itch turned into unbearable I woke up with low level sunlight creeping through the windows.  I peeled myself off the couch and retired into the comfort of being beside Lauren; a pillar I needed to lean on. 

After awakening normally, Curls calls and offers to drive us around to see some of the things that Fairfield has to offer.  Did I mention Idaho was beautiful?  We check out fields of Camas Lily’s, which were used back in the day by Native Americans for many different reasons.  I’m not sure what those reasons are, nor can I site those reasons, but that’s what we were told.  These blue flowers were blooming and were in full display while we were there.  They needed a marshland to grow, consistently sprouting out of 2-4inches of water, and this Idaho valley floor appeared to be the perfect climate for these little guys to nearly take over.  Millions upon millions of these small flowers spread nearly as far as the valley floor would let them.  These marshlands also provided a unique environment for wildlife, and Curls, a pretty darn good amateur photographer, was using this tour opportunity to shoot photos of birds out of the car window.  There were some really great opportunities on display and I hope that she got the shot that she wanted.

We left the Camas Lily fields and ventured onto a more mountainous road to check out some Idaho back roads.  Amazing rock formations paired with huge mountain backdrops capped in snow built a rather picturesque scene.  Curls had to be back to be at work at 11:00a.m. so our tour was quick, but it was a great one.

Curls drops us off at the grocery store at the end of town.  Fairfield has about forty people, and they are almost all in a closely woven street pattern of blocks.  This is interesting because of all the available land out there, everyone lives within a half of a square mile.  There are a few ranch houses littered throughout the valley floor, but the majority of folks are in this small area.  We grab a few provisions and walk the short walk back to the house, where we cook a pound of bacon and pair it with a half gallon of ice cream.  We didn’t eat the entire pound of bacon, just most of it.  The ice cream, on the other hand, didn’t stand a chance.  I remember using pieces of bacon to scoop the very bottom of the ice cream container.  This was a proud moment for the two of us.  This “Fat Fest” as it will forever be known was paired with the half of Bagger Vance that Lauren missed.  We cooked dinner with Cinderella Story on, and had a decent meal, and decided to hit the bed a little earlier as we were leaving the following morning.  Curls and Jim Dandy, her husband, were cooking breakfast.

Drifting into a comfortable state of sleep with Lauren did not yield any feelings of homesick.  Even when she is upset, which was not the case here, but even when she is she can still provide a calming comfort to me, and for that I am ever thankful.  It is around 100 miles to Boise, and that is our goal for the next day.  Breakfast with Curls and Jim Dandy was great, and we start to head out on our longest ride yet.

Large pass up ahead, super long distance, we figure we will shoot for a super early start.  It didn’t happen.  Somehow we always end up leaving around 8:30-9:00 regardless of how early we get up, how well prepared we were the night before, and even without having to break down camp; an interesting circumstance.  We start on, figuring we are going to be pedaling until at least 8p.m.  We don’t even make it out of the 1/2 area where everyone lives here and we are stopped by another touring cyclist.  Some of the guys are traveling alone(both that we have seen so far) and they just want to talk.  Sometimes it seems like it is forever.  We might have only been talking to him for five minutes, but it felt like an eternity as we were already behind the eight ball.  about ten miles in the hills kick up and the grunt work begins.  As the weather starts warming up, slightly, we pull over for a pee break onto the roughest little dirt road that was around, pulled a few hundred yards down and figured we were in a good spot.  Lauren’s ability to squat anywhere adds value to her a a traveling partner.  I could only imagine some of the more particular broads I’ve met in my day bitching and moaning about having to pee outside all the time.  She’s not that girl, thank God.  As soon as she squats and the flow becomes audible, a truck pulls right into where we are, and all but stops right beside her.  Gotta love perfect timing.

We trek on up the hill.  Tight road, semi trucks, and the wind is starting to pick up, inevitably not in our favor.  We come to what must be close to the top of this pass and pull over for lunch.  As we pull into the small gravel lot that doubles as an access road for some lake on down the line, I’m on Lauren’s tail and she comes to an abrupt stop.  In order to avoid running into her I have to bail off the bike, except my feet stay strapped in to my rat cages, and I clumsily plop onto my side on the gravel.  At first I thought I twisted my ankle but upon realizing I was fine as I was picking myself up off the ground, Lauren’s laughter filling the airwaves, I notice that there are about seven cars in this gravel parking lot, all with people in their cars, and all of them looking at me, also laughing.  A few of them made funny comments as they drove by, and I replied with poise and style.  Shit, it was funny.  As we sit down and make our lunch, not even five minutes later there is absolutely no one in the parking lot.  Again; gotta love perfect timing.

We wrap up lunch and begin to head down the road.  There is a bit more uphill, which we are now approaching eight to ten miles of ascent, and we finally reach a sign announcing the start of an Idaho State park.  We crest the hill and pause at an over look.  There are steep landscapes down to another floor, but the terrain is deathly steep; think Grand Canyon type steep.  Beautiful.  At this point we are already looking to hitch hike again.  Brutal winds, and barely sixty degrees in the Idaho desert ain’t notin’ to fuck with.  We see no promise in hanging out at the over look, as we just spent thirty plus minutes at the gravel lot one or two miles earlier. 

We start what ends up being a steeper descent than the ascent we just busted up.  The scariest moment of the trip so far happened on this stretch of road.  As we descend there was a relatively sharp curve.  On bikes, even loaded down like we are, you can take turns faster than cars when gravity is in your favor.  In the dead center of this curve on the shoulder is a large spire that spans about twenty yards in diameter and scales up to it’s pointy peak at about sixty feet above the roads surface.  It is pretty captivating, but as I round out the curve and pass the spire, a huge gust of wind is shooting out of the gorge floor.  The spire had provided a brief break from the wind, but on the other side the wind was nauseating as I felt my helmet lift off of my head, held only by my chin strap, and my bike started to feel lighter on the ground.  I thought I was about to blast off.  My speedometer was broke at this point, but gauging from my past experiences it is safe to say that me and my one hundred and fifteen pound steed were topping out around 35mph as the head wind tried to tackle me to the ground.  After I am able to stabilize I turn around to see if Lauren weathered the ass jerkin’ alright.  She had and we press on downhill, grade lessening, wind increasing. 

We go about ten more miles before we figure that we are going to have to cut our trip to Boise short and camp in a place called Mountain Home.  We come across a small restaurant and stop in to see if they have a Gatorade or something of the sort.  No luck, but the host that we had planned to stay with in Boise did gives us a call while we were takin’ a break.  Said that they would also be willing to pick us up if we made it to a certain point.  I think it sounds like a great idea, but now Lauren is saying we should just camp in Mountain Home.  There is a decent looking campground next to a lake.  The major downside to it, and also to our journey today if it were to be carried out as planned, is that the last fifty miles to Boise are all on the interstate.  Super wide shoulder, fro what we are told, but an interstate none the less.  The road noise is so loud after the first few minutes.

We finally start to ascend again.  Have I mentioned how beautiful Idaho is, and how much the landscape changes completely every twenty miles?  The wind is a pain, the hills hurt too, but the beauty is unescapable.  This is a relatively busy little road we are on leading me to the second ‘almost shit my pants’ moment of the day.  As we are rounding a curve a chick decides to pass a vehicle in her lane.  This normally wouldn’t be an issue but due to the terrain there is no visible shoulder equating for nowhere for us to escape.  I pull onto the white line and stand up and spread my arms as wide as I can, as if trying to intimidate a bear.  This chick has locked eyes with me and the fact that Lauren and I were able to scoot over far enough to evade Speedy Gon-bitch-face and not fall off the road was beyond me.  Thank God she was in a Jetta. 

We breach another long and steep uphill, and it almost flattens out for a while, not before I had to get off of my rig and push up the hill a ways to let my lungs recover.  Once the terrain mostly evens out at the top of the ridge line, we carry on admiring the drastic changes around us, and the pass a guy pushing his bike.  The difference between ours and his was hit was a late ’90’s Harley Davidson.  He said he had just bought it last week and hand’t realized the gas gauge didn’t work until now.  We offered him some snacks and water but he said he was alright.  Just past him we find a bungee chord laying on the shoulder.  You’d be amazed at how many of these things you can find laying on the side of the road.  This one was needed though.  For some reason I am just getting my ass handed to me today, and Lauren, well she’s back full force.  She offers to relieve some of the weight that I have on.  She has made this offer before.  Perhaps I can be a bit passive, but I’ve never let her take anything yet, and although she’s offered many times before, she’s never tried to actually take anything.  This time she did.  I must have been going slow enough to where she was bored out of her mind and need to increase her challenge while simultaneously increasing my speed.  What a gal.  She takes the tend and our large stuff sack.  Fuck man, I can’t tell you if it really made a difference or not, but the gesture was outstanding given my mood.  I’m usually pretty chipper, but despite being surrounded the beauty of the God given ever changing landscape, today was just fucking hard.  No way around it. 

A blessing awaits us, however, and we begin to descend.  The environment has officially shifted from a high plains landscape to a high desert, and we start to go down; far down.  I mean really, really far down.  We have reached a point where the land starts to work its way back down to the ocean.  Sure, we’ve crossed the great divide, but this was the first shift in major land formation as opposed to more mountainous ups and downs.  Fairfield, ID is above 5,000ft in elevation and Boise is at 2,700 feet in elevation.  Pair that difference with the long ascents we trekked up and you have undoubtedly the longest decent of the trip.  At one point the land opened up in a way for you to take in the massive difference in elevation, as you could see out what looked to be over sixty miles.  The descent was long enough and steep enough to where we had to stop a couple times and let our breaks cool down.  It gets to a point where you can just feel the friction getting warmer with every tire rotation.  These are great opportunities to check out the beauty Idaho has to offer.

We finally reach the bottom after what must have been over twenty minutes of descent with no uphill.  After another five miles or so we reach the lake where the campground is.  Visible in a short distance is a very large truck stop that we figure we will ride to and continue to try our luck with catching a ride to Boise.  We contact our host to let him know what our current plan is, and he insists on heading out to get us if we have no success within the hour.  A half an hour goes by, no luck, and he calls to confirm his departure and heading towards our direction.  I’m beyond grateful yet again.  I’m not sure if it’s my overall demeanor towards cycling, the dumb fucking clothes I have to wear to keep my balls from turning into bloody raspberries and inner thighs from the same, or the weight on the bike, the massive distances we prescribe for ourselves, the wind, the cold, or the combination of all the above, but it is pretty easy to get discouraged sometimes.  The fact that our would be host is coming to get us, again, and has made mention of many available beers for the upcoming holiday, Memorial Day, suits my fancy fine.  Fine, just fine. 

He and his wife show up.  They have a bike rack and ample space, and Lauren and I both pass out almost before we are even on the interstate.  I shake the sleep off before we are totally in their driveway, barely, and we pull into this gorgeous property.  We’ll call him Marty and her Nurse Betty.  Marty is an architect, and it is beyond evident in the structure and layout of their home.  Nurse Betty is a nurse; I’m sure you wouldn’t have guessed.  Let the hospitality begin.

Every person in the world is different.  Every experience we have in life and certainly on this journey has it’s own indention on our hearts and minds, and we all serve our own purposes.  It almost seemed as though these Marty and Nurse Betty were put here to entertain.  We’ve had some stellar experiences with warmshowers thus far, but these two were above and beyond all measure.  They were both very experienced cyclists having completed multiple world tours.  They actually met on a tour when they were both in South Africa at the time, and they were and still are planning another world tour spanning a time of more than two and a half years.  Nurse Betty points out that she hopes to retire before the trip starts.  Marty has his own opinion on that, but Nurse Betty proclaims that she will be turning 68 on that trip; perhaps she’s paid her financial dues by this point. 

Food, beer, rest, and more food.  These guys do it right.  Lauren and I have discussed with them over our first dinner about our upcoming days.  They agree to let us stay with them the next three nights, more rest, and also have a hike planned on what would be our departure day.  It just so happens that their hike happens to be in the same direction as our tour, and they want to take us hiking, and then drop us off about six miles from our next camp.  Totally fine with me.

The next day Lauren and I tour Boise, and it was above and beyond my expectations.  Boise was beautiful.  The city was clean, it had views of mountains covered in snow, and their were bike lanes every where.  One of the neater coffee shops I’ve been to was here, and there is a street, 8th,, or maybe it’s 6th street, but I think 8th street had more restaurant and nightlife to choose from than you’d give Boise credit for.  We stop at the Anne Frank Museum there for some culture, and one of the larger regrets of the trip so far is not going to see the trade mark blue field at Boise State.  We drove right by the campus, but I am not good at setting time aside for things I want to do, sometimes.  Beautiful rivers abound with people playing in and using them, as well as many people commuting in the bike lanes built a welcome environment for our current state of travel.  Back home, more food, more beer, more rest.  Life is good.

On the third night, there are two other cyclists who stop in.  A man, girlfriend, and dog.  The girlfriend had walked from Canada to Mexico, yes, walked, and now the trio were heading back to, somewhere.  Hell I can’t remember.  This guy had saddle bags and a trailer.  The trailer carried his 84pound lab and 30pounds of dog food.  If the hills got to steep he had a command, “Fat dog out.” and the dog would eject and trot up the hill beside him.  It was pretty amazing.  I thought I was carrying too much weight.  On the notion of weight, we had all watched a few slide shows that Marty had put together of their tours, as he always tours with a stellar camera.  Marty and Nurse Betty’s bikes were way more loaded down than ours.  Granted they never really traveled more than fifty miles a day, but still, massive weight, and I give massive respect.  The man, girlfriend and dog had all been caught in a fire in Mexico that nearly burnt the town down that they were in.  A random side story, but these are the interesting things about traveling and meeting other people that is so badass, so wondrous, and an element that has been near nonexistent in our journey.  Perhaps people wanted to hear about us, and perhaps we didn’t have the right set of questions to ask others, but this night brewed up some pretty amazing stories between the three groups of travelers communing over a very well prepared meal, some booze, and plenty of warm company.  A deep rest, a large breakfast, and a great hike await the morning.

Week 5ish-Wyoming

Week 5ish-Wyoming

 

IMG_0672 IMG_0668 IMG_0667 IMG_0654 IMG_0647 IMG_0641 IMG_0638 IMG_0636 IMG_0627 IMG_0626 IMG_0621
It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial. This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended. My family, I know you’ll still love me. My friends, the same. Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will. Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me. God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

I can’t even lie to you; I have no fucking clue where I’m at time wise. In all reality, I’m in somewhere U.S.A. and haven’t had service for more than twenty minutes on some coffee shop wi-fi, and have been wrapped up with summer classes. Flash back to—- Major drops us off at Fort Robinson in Harrison, NE. We new that Nebraska was goin’ to be an ask kicker because the food and water was going to be sparse, and we had been blessed by the grace of good fortune that people were willing to help us out, show us some amazing things, and spare us from the unfortunate lack of provisions and packing ability of the two of us. Wyoming has less than NE. Go figure.
I did some research and found that, and I cannot be expressive enough when I say this, I love North Carolina with all my being. I didn’t have to do research to do that, but just know that the state of North Carolina pulses through my veins with every beat, and although the old north state is having a rough time right now, I will hold on to the state and try to be a change for the better. Why this is relevant is because I use North Carolina for a basis of comparison. Since it is what I know it is the bar with which all others are judged. My research found that Wyoming has more than twice the land mass of North Carolina by square miles. Wyoming also has roughly one twentieth(1/20th) of the population of North Carolina. I also take pride in my home town and thought that I grew up, roughly, in the middle of no where. What a fucking delusion. Spend anytime in Wyoming and you’ll realize that you are not really from small town U.S.A. We knew that we needed to pack extra, extra water, wake up super early so we could knock out as many miles as possible, and get the hell through vast openness of Wyoming so we can experience the Tetons, Yellowstone, and such. It’s all on the other end.
Wake up in the last frontier, for our purposes, of NE. Put the bikes back together since we had to mildly disassemble to fit in Major’s van, and got in too late to give a shit. Gear is outside, it is around 35 degrees, overcast, slightly drizzly, and it looks like there is no break from this type of weather today. It’s all good; we’re young, we’re crazy, and let’s face it; not everyday can be perfect…. We’ve found that the wind is less early in the day and really picks up around 9-11a.m. East to West. The hotel that Major put us up in has a restaurant and we had a few cups of coffee before we rolled out. Rollin’ out, winds already blowin’. Cold and windy, we press on and the views open up amazingly. NE mountains are about as admirable as many that we’ve seen. Now we go up.
With winds pushing against us at around 20mph already, we ascend 3,500+ in twelve miles and crest over the top of what is the NE/Wyoming border. Once we get to the top the winds increase. I hope I can scrounge a video that I took of the winds ravaging the plains we looked down on. This was on the verge of destructive. We found the amazing overlook at the peak which had a drive that horse shoed around. I went uphill on the drive without pedaling the wind was blowing so hard. When we came back down, it was almost-almost worth it to walk. We press on, winds now pressing us around 30-40 with some gusts that had to have topped 50. We keep going, without much of another option, and the traffic is near none existent. Why would people go from one barely inhabited state to another?
It stays the same. I am pretty cheery in general despite shitty situations, especially when they are uncontrollable or unavoidable. Why fret when you can’t change your position. This is ridiculous and I keep smiling, insisting to Lauren that once we break over the next hill top we’ll get a break; it’s only blowing like this because we are at the top and it will subside once we start to descend. Every time we crested, there was yet another peak either even to or slightly above our current position. This problem is compounded by the fact that once we were lucky enough to go down hill, we still had to pedal. No recovery today, not for these two. I have my bicycle computer and it is registering 5-6mph on the downhills and 3.5-4.5mph on the ups and flats. Uphills are almost a favor because they break the wind. Cross wind gusts have came at us and blown me into the gravel of the loose shoulder. As fortune would have it, we are going to slow for the loose shoulder to send me over my handlebars when the tires sink too deep; it’s really just kind of inconvenient rather that painful. Fast forward a few miles and we have a slight break in the wind and the views open up. My theory is proving partially correct because we are on a more consistent descent than going up, and the wind has dropped back down to 20mph rather than the total ripping gusts that we endured earlier. Oh goodie.
Our ascent brought us to a point that the temperature remained a heart warming 35, and the prevailing winds, with the addition of our bike speed wind(slow) kept our spirits high. I can see across the plains a large storm cloud system dumping what looks to be around the same volume of liquid as Niagara Falls onto the grass, but this is miles off in the distance.
“That is so beautiful…” I proclaim. “I love seeing the storms rain from a far like that. Good for us it appears to be blowing away from where we are heading. I can’t think of too much worse than 35 and raining, but we’ll be alright today” I was almost right.
About a mile later, I see a small speck bounce off of my rain jacket( I wear the rain jacket as my outer layer when it is cold because it keeps the wind from my skin where as everything else gets cut like razor blade). A few more specks bounce lightly off of my fingerless gloves and my sleeves. I see white collecting on Lauren’s braid that is resting over her black rain coat. The same white is bouncing off her helmet and sleeves. I do a thorough investigation of my self, Lauren’s being, the sky, and our belongings. I conclude that we are fucked.
Despite my conclusion I keep myself chipper. I have a feeling take over my entire body; imagine one hundred jerks in a firing line with fully automatic BB guns opening fire on you. You can’t die, but you can’t get away. Our eyes are shielded because of the helmets, rain jackets provide a bit of a break, not much, but our legs and hands are taking quite the pelting. For the next few minutes of my life all I hear is the loudness of 1/2’’ hail bouncing off of my saddle bags, metal tubing of my bicycle, helmet, pavement, my skin, and Lauren yelling differing bits of profanity. This becomes one of those moments where everything is louder than you can imagine it would be. So here we’ve found ourselves just barely over the NE/Wyoming line, somewhere over 3,500’ in elevation with 30mph winds coming at our faces being pounded by hail in a place where there is not a tree to be found, or any other structure, not even a power line to take cover under, and Lauren is yelling bits of profanity. We stopped so I could explain to her that I was experiencing the same sensation that she was, and that at this moment she was in fact, not alone in her pain. We make the decision to pedal on, as there is no shelter to find, and it’s not going to end any sooner if we sit on the side of the road. It is a bit difficult to deicide that you need to keep pedaling when you are being blunged by frozen fucking rocks of water falling from the sky somewhere between 4,000 & 10,000 feet above your head. I must admit, in retrospect, the high plains of Wyoming are absolutely beautiful covered in white balls of ice. It’s one of those morbid beauty’s after experiencing what we did. Sometimes you must march. Onward.
After thirty minutes of this painful predicament we’ve found ourselves in, the hail finally subsides and turns into water. Earlier I had mentioned “I can’t think of too much worse than 35 and raining, but we’ll be alright today”. Silly fuckin’ me. Now we have found ourselves enduring the same scenario as before, except now the jerks in the firing line are now spraying water hoses, and it feels like being in a walk-in freezer. Life is good.
We finally get to a small town. We had received a tip that there was a bar and a restaurant somewhere in this one road town. I do a quick glance of my technical gear to see what our stats are for the day so far, as it is lunch time(past lunch time in our humble opinions at this time). We have made it 24 miles in 4&1/2 hours. 10-15mph is average. Do the math.
I roll down the hill a bit to check out the scene for this bar or restaurant and hear Lauren chatting with these two people who were pulling out of a parking spot on this “Main Street”. Their conversation went something along the lines of this…
Older couple in older Suburban-”You have got to be miserable.”
“Yes! We’ve been hailed on…crazy winds….freezing cold…Yikes!”
“That sounds awful. We’re going the way you just came from to pick up somethings, but we will be coming back through. You can stay at our place tonight if you want. It’s eleven miles in the direction you are heading.”
“Let’s do that.” Lauren replies.
When it came down to it, we had multiple cups of coffee in a pretty sweet bar, all cowboys inside(real cowboys too. Either totally clean shaven, like they shaved five minutes ago, or totally grey bearded and nappy haired. Long, flowing chaps, huge revolver pistols on the hip. They looked at me funny in my silly cycling shorts[I can’t stand those tight things]), a decent lunch, and they came and had a couple beers with me before they loaded us up in the Suburban and took us back to their casa. It was a quant little place in a town with a population of 18, called Van Tassel. Thank you very much, and so glad to be here.
As we were having a few beers with our new friends, known from here on as Dino and Robert, we learn a few things. Dino, and short and frumpy, not to mention the sweetest little lady you can meet, owns a catering business that she runs out of her house(I’ve spent my entire adult life focusing on how to be a better contributor of the hospitality industry, so we click on a personal level immediately. She’s also southern; her mild souther accent comforts my soul.) We also find out that Robert is going to a place south of Riverton, WY, to do a father daughter dance with his granddaughter, which is the last junction city before a turn to go to Grand Tetons. This is also 244miles away from where we are. The reluctancy to hitch hike and only pedal our gear was lost two states ago. We’d love too.
Another blessing, as we had no clue how desolate Wyoming actually was until we had saw it. There is a good chance, about a 100% chance, that we would have encountered some serious issues out there. It is a dessert, there are not stores, and you will die if not very well prepared, or tucked under the wing of a generous individual willing to drive you a great distance. We stayed two nights with Dino and Robert, ate very, very well, and then Robert drove us 244 miles. Never underestimate the kindness of people who live in a small town. It’s almost like these people are over compensating for the smallness of their towns, but it does leave an ever lasting impression.
Robert takes us to Riverton, which we are now afraid of because he has drilled into us that the reservation there has a high murder rate, and we should not be out after 9p.m. This is confirmed by a few other people we’ve encountered over the past few days. We were going to have to go through it anyways, so we’ll take what we can get. He plops us at a Safeway grocery store and we set our gear up with a gracious send off from our new friend, and begin to pedal. The weather is absolutely pleasant, we’ve traveled what would have taken us a week to a week and a half in three days, and things are great.
After going three miles, the terrain opens up and we observe what is our first glance of the Rocky Mountains. Snow covered peaks spanning from 4,000’ to 14,000’ take up the horizon, and I have what might be my first real ‘star struck’ moment. I’ve heard about them my entire life. I’ve seen them on television. I’ve observed numerous pictures of them on magazine covers, post cards, stamps. These pieces of artistic skyline have received more press coverage over the years than Elvis, The King himself. I had to soak it in for a few minutes because it was a star stuck moment.
Once we hit the ten mile mark, we come up on a triangle intersection, and a truck pulls up to us. A rather normal looking couple rolls down their window and inquires…
“Do you need any directions? Know where you’re going?”
We explain that we have a GPS and have a good idea of where we are heading. We ask them where the next place to get water is, because we know where we are camping has no running water and we need to re-up before setting up camp. Once we talk for a few moments, they offer that we can just stay at their house and they will drive us to Dubois, WY, a little town at the base of the first large pass we will encounter the next day. Sweet.
We cycle to their house, about 1.5miles away, and the Mrs. meets us in the drive way to explain that their are gun shots coming from the front lawn(target practice) and that they could actually drive us up to Dubois this day. I’m not sure whose or which God we’ve pleased, but it seems that odds are just in our favor. We shower at their house, load up their large truck with Mr., Mrs., and two boys, us and the gear, and head out. The trend of the landscape gaining beauty mile for mile keeps going. The landscape has gained beauty mile for mile for a thousand miles now, bringing me to the conclusion that Wyoming is 1,000 times more beautiful than Iowa. Iowa; great people, boring landscape. Wyoming, great people, beautiful landscape.
They drive us by a place called Crow Heart Butte. The story is that two Native American tribes that were under constant rivalry, and still kill each other to this day, had their two chiefs fight to the death on top of the Butte, a volcano-like hill shooting 1,000-1,200’ out of the ground with a large flat top. It was awesome to look at and the story added to it’s beauty and mystery. Supposedly the one chief, after rendering his opponent incapacitated, ripped his heart out and eight. His name then changed from Crow, to Crow Heart. Neat story, neater butte.
This is where my first real acquaintance with the local dialect happened. I can’t rag on people for anything; I am overburdened with my own idiosyncrasies that crack me up and seem kooky to others to give a shit about the way they choose to communicate—-I wish this were true, because it would have kept me from wanting to scratch my eardrums out for the next hour of my life. I still want to stick my fingernails in my ears far enough to puncture my own hearing mechanisms when I hear it, or even when I think about it. Any southerner can relate to the “soda” vs. “pop” vs. “everything is Coke” debate. When we hear “pop” it makes us want to do exactly what I described above. Silly, but true. What I endured was even worse. “Crik”. At least when someone says “pop” in reference to a soda, even Coke, they pronounce it the way it is spelled. “Crik” just isn’t right. I want to know who is teaching these kids bad habits that aren’t just bad, but wrong. Creek. I heard the word-creek- spoken as ‘“crik” around one thousand times, and just like the law of attraction it ended brining on more of itself. The couple was nice enough to drive us another 60 or so miles to Dubois, where they dropped us off at a road named Sheriden Creek. We heard Sheriden “Crik” ten thousand times. The husband was born and bred in this part of Wyoming, so I really can’t fault the dialect. I’m a firm proponent of each area hanging on to its roots. I can only hope that my children have one tenth of the draw that I poses. When someone complements, mentions, or laughingly ridicules my draw it feels me with a great sense of pride. I would like to take this moment to sincerely thank my mother and father, not to mention all of my home town for influencing me in this fashion. “Crik” hurts my ears though. I did find our conversations kind of neat though, because he sounded very Canadian, in my opinion.
We get to Sheriden “Crik” and start setting up camp. There are bear boxes for food storage, but no designated camp spots. There is also snow on the ground. We are around 5,700’ in elevation, there are pine trees abound, we are in a large but narrow valley, and there are quite a few inches of snow on the ground in shady areas, and you can still see bits of frozen ground around. Lauren cooks dinner while I gather serious amounts of fire wood. It must be known that Lauren’s biggest fear, at least to my knowledge, is bears. She is terrified of bears and even the mention of them makes her make funny noises. My personal biggest fear is permanent death. I guess we are both pretty reasonable. While I am gathering fire wood she makes mention of the importance of not spilling any bits of food on the ground, and also that we should have extra wood gathered for the morning because it is going to be hard to be motivated when it is 25degrees or less. This task isn’t too difficult, although the fact that there is snow almost every where insures that most of the wood is some-what damp due to the fact of being under snow for months until probably the past week, or less.
Fire’s blazing, food’s good, air’s cold, but there is something so special about these types of moments. We were comfortable. After falling asleep, I was woken by perhaps some of the most eery noises I’ve ever heard. It is hard to say with certainty, but it sounded as if one hundred wild coyotes were howling within one hundred years of our tent. This was not the case, but the steepness of the valley walls and the way that the hills rose around us, all the sounds of these wild dogs were amplified to near painful levels and carried for amazing distances with the crispness of all vegetation not allowing for any sound absorption as they are too frozen to provide any sort of sound barrier, and the ice that covers the ground has the same effect. I could tune them out for a minute, then the howls would only grow in numbers and increase in intensity, not to mention the stamina of these wild dogs to maintain a noise is beyond impressive. I slept for a while longer and was awoken again. After listening to the dogs for a few minutes I noticed my breathing rate had increased and decided to check my pulse out of curiosity. I was beating around 130bpm. It’s safe to say that these dogs had made me a bit nervous. Once I accepted the my current situation, and realized that they are just amazingly loud and not anywhere close to us or the tent, I just lay back with my eyes open and listen to this amazing performance that mother nature is putting on for us. I didn’t sleep a whole lot this night, and the sleep that I did get wasn’t the most comfortable, but after placing myself in the moment with the sounds of these dogs, the late night owls, birds, and various other creatures absolutely lit up my sensory receptors, and this bit of an avante-garde concerto will remain embossed in my memory as one of the most beautiful songs I’ve ever been lucky enough to hear.
We awoke with spunk. The spunk was a bit jaded, as it was 20some odd degrees outside of the tent. I started the fire and Lauren whipped us up some coffee. We had to have spunk, as we knew this was going to be the hardest day we have had yet, and could potentially be the hardest day of our three month journey. Togwahtee Pass was on our current agenda, and we knew that we had to go 88 miles, as we had a warm shower host in Jackson. It was going to be around 20 miles uphill with zero break until we breach the pass, followed by a 14mile downhill, then a bunch of up and down until we reach the host house. Our biggest elevation pass, paired with the second longest day we’ve done yet. This is also compounded by the fact that there is only one place to stop for a mid-day coffee break, about thirty miles into our journey. We dig in.
I love music, all types, and am moved by all types of sound. Heavy metal pulled me up the mountain this day. I also thoroughly enjoy things that are amazingly difficult. I enjoy being impressed, even if it is with myself. I impressed myself with this. Lauren had a bit of an issue with elevation; not a new thing for her, apparently. She had made mention of being bothered by the elevation in a few other worldly travels she had been on. I felt like king of the world, however. I will take this moment to admit that when Lauren is suffering from altitude sickness and I am feeling like a king, we actually go the same pace. I’ll blame it on my bike-I got it for sixty dollars at a thrift store, after all.
We crest Togwahtee at 9,584, and this is the western continental divide. I seriously felt bullet proof. This is the first time on the bike that I felt accomplished. With all the weight on the bike, and it’s limitations, I just beasted the fuckin’ Rocky Mountains; well the first part of it. I wish Lauren could have felt as well as I did, but I just rolled with how well I felt. We were decently warm on the way up; pedaling uphill is hard work, after all. Once we got to the top, it became drastically colder, and the snow was a good six to eight feet deep. The snow had been getting thicker with each hundred feet we went, but at this peak it was deep. Once we started to go down the other side it got even colder. We had to stop to soak in the views of our first glimpse of Grand Tetons, but cruised on down. The funny thing about this down hill is that is wasn’t all down hill, but it was pretty damn close.
About halfway down the fourteen mile decent, the road opened up, and there it was. Lauren’s biggest fear. In all its cuddly glory, a six hundred plus pound grizzly stood on all fours perched on the side of a hill. If you are going to encounter a grizzly, going downhill on what could be the longest and steepest downhill in Wyoming might not be the worst place to be. There were a few cars taking photos of the bear, but once he caught a glimpse of us for about fifty yards away, he was gone up the hill. He was the second fastest being around. I believe Lauren waxed him in the “Let’s get da fuck outta here” race. She has quite the ability to secure her own safety at the expense of a few calories burned, and she’s fast as hell. By the time I saw the bear start to disappear into the brush line, I looked back over to see only a few cars and Lauren was clear out of sight. I did see one older man with a huge lens on his camera look at me like he wanted to kill me. Perhaps we just scared off a once in a lifetime opportunity. Ah well, the most important part is that it was scared off.
We finish the downhill and start to do some small uphills and flats with a few downs thrown in. We are excited because there is a solid coffee break in the near future, and we’ll get a break from the cold. Fast forward, and there was no coffee break. Everything we passed for 80miles was closed. Lauren, still suffering from her altitude hangover, never got hangry, but when she decide she was ready to eat, she sat down flat on the shoulder of the highway. I was a near quarter mile ahead when I realized that she wasn’t moving anymore. I turned around, sat beside her, and we ate in silence. The landscape finally opened up and we had an amazing view of Grand Tetons. This is an amazing area too, as the valley floor is nearly flat, nearly, and there are ten mile wide views of flat grasslands with an ever abundant source of wildlife. Buffalo, elk, moose, mule deer, birds, I’m sure I’m forgetting something. It was all amazing. There was a moment when two moose where running towards us, then parallel, then away, then with us again for a near half mile. I was way more terrified of this than the bear. Moose are crazy, bears want to remain undisturbed. They were heading straight for us for a moment and I was concerned that we were being charged. They finally leapt over a rather tall wall of sage brush. I love watching these types of animals jump over things, because it will always catch me off guard. Their ability to clear tall obstacles is amazing to me, and the heavy, awkward, goofy animals just jumped over a barrier that had to have been six or seven feet tall, and they made it look effortless.
We end up on a totally rad bike trail that takes us straight into Jackson, where there are even more rad bike trails. At this point of our trip, Jackson has the best infrastructure and integration for cyclists. We navigated the entire town without ever having to be on the road or a shoulder. It was fun, pleasant, perhaps even enjoyable. In retrospect, this was a great, great day. We made great time despite the pass, but we attribute our good ground coverage to the fact that there was not a single convenience store, coffee shop, restaurant, or anything else to break us from the wind or cold, so we just had to trek on. Jackson is beautiful, and after a grocery store stop we make it to our new host house. He had told us that they would be out of town until late, so when we arrive, there is no one there and I whip up some grub while Lauren gets clean. This was the first avocado I had had since North Carolina, and that will remain in my head for a while too. I never want to go that long without an avocado again.
Once our hosts arrive, after 10:00p.m., they decide that they want to let us borrow their Subaru and suggest that we tour ourselves around Yellowstone, NP. This is another God send, as we had just written off that Yellowstone was not going to happen since it was a bit too far away, and we weren’t willing to expend the energy or the time to bike around the park with it’s however many hundred thousand acres and however many thousand feet in elevation change. We take them up on their offer.
Full tank of gas and we are ready to see what western Wyoming has to offer. We hop in the car and head off after breakfast. We break for lunch under Grand Teton at Jenny Lake, which provides one of the most astonishing views that I’ve yet to come across. This came to be my favorite view of the trip; the mountains jutting out of the lake bed, trees, huge sheets of ice still breaking on the surface, birds flying between us and the lake. There was a lot that could be viewed as surreal, but this wasn’t a surrealist moment. It was a real moment.
We decide that we need to roll on to experience, or at least see, everything that we could, which isn’t nearly as much as the landscape had to offer. I love hiking, walking around, touching things, jumping onto and climbing large rocks. These things make me feel like a young kid. These moments inspire me and fill me with wonder. We do not have a lot of opportunity for me to feed my inner child, but there is a great amount of opportunity to see amazing landscapes and mill about. I will be back to these places because in being a good parent to myself, I must come back and feed my inner child.
After a quick drive through of the Tetons we head to Yellowstone. Luckily for us it is still early enough in the season where there is not an issue with traffic. We see 10+ foot snow drifts and are amazed by the landscape difference between where we were in Jackson and what is here in Yellowstone. I had my Yellowstone experience jaded from the get go because some of the naysayers back in NC had informed me that not much of Yellowstone held a candle to the Tetons. Although I am not disagreeing with this statement fully, I don’t think any of us can really be too fair of a judge since Yellowstone has over 2million acres. Lauren and I drove for hours and only made it to Old Faithful, a short 1/2mile hike, and back the way we came from. Such a huge piece of real estate.
Old Faithful was interesting-
“So I guess this thing can’t be too dependable, right?” I utter to a ranger at an information desk.
“It is actually very reliable, erupting every (however long) with a thirty minute window.” This verbal transaction can never be as funny on paper as it was in person. Use your imagination.
Some neat geysers and pools, interesting landscapes and smells, tons of wildlife, and the most people I’ve seen in one place in months, it seemed. The traffic wasn’t bad, but it did seem that everyone was around the faithful motivator.

On the way back to our sleeping destination we pul up on what is referred to as a “bear jam” back at the Tetons.  This is a traffic jam that occurs due to the presence of a bear.  The cars where parked anywhere they could be on this two lane road, and the super expensive telescoping camera lenses are out.  We decide to pull over and join the fun.  In the distance I see a grizzly trudging around tall grasses and some smaller tree growth.  The bear walks slowly in the direction of us, the spectators, and once it gets out of the tall grass, a young cub emerges with momma bear.  This young cub seemed to be directed by the Pied Piper of Hamlin, as it was almost like the infant bear was dancing for everyone, playing around some trees stumps, and making the hearts of everyone melt.  I’m not usually impacted by things of this nature, but the way it moved everyone around us was an amazing experience.  The cub and mother moseyed across the road, less than fifteen yards from the larger grouping of photographers.  The ranger present insisted on everyone moving back away from scene, but no one was even close to listening to the prescribed authority, cameras clicking, zooming, readjusting, and clicking again.  The bears filtered on through to the other side of the road and disappeared into the taller growth.  Lauren and I had clearly underestimated the rarity of the experience that we just had, because as at the moment that the bears shifted into the woods, the audience that were standing in the road turned to look at each other with the powerful look of “Did you just see what I saw? You saw it too? Holy shit!”, except not a word was uttered.  After the recognition of each others recognition, half of the audience began to shed tears and hug each other in the middle of the road for two or three minutes.  Total strangers shedding tears on the double yellow of a two lane road and hugging each other.  It was pretty awesome.
Driving back to Jackson we lay out our plans for the next few days.IMG_0680

Week 4/Nebraska/South Dakota

IMG_0539 IMG_0548 IMG_0550 IMG_0552 IMG_0553 IMG_0565 IMG_0577 IMG_0584 IMG_0585 IMG_0592 IMG_0606IMG_0610

It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial.  This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended.  My family, I know you’ll still love me.  My friends, the same.  Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will.  Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me.  God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

 

 

 

Week 4

“Omaha- way down town in middle America.”  I din’t really dig the Counting Crows when I was growing up, but now that I am older, respectively, I enjoy them much more.  Omaha is a seriously rad city, with seriously cool things to do, in a seriously bland part of U.S.A. What the initial draw was to get people to come to this area, I’ll never be sure, but it seems that they got the right people in the right seats on the bus, because this city is the shit.  I’m sure if you’ve lived here long enough, then you can find some problems with it, but even if you have the nicest car in the world, you still have to change the oil in it sometimes.  

Once we depart with our last host, we pedal through the city until we reach our new host’s domain.  Seems like a cool area.  She(known from here on as KL) is waiting on the steps for us when we pull up; after the recent travel details, seeing her smile was one of the most uplifting things I’ve come across.  She invites us in, multiple bikes piled inside the opening corridor. Her man(known as JH) was at work(high school band director; one of the more awesome jobs one can have.  It always seems like one of those things that will stress you to no end, and you can hardly stand a minute of it, but always go back with pleasure.  That is at least how every band director has ever came off in my mind).  The house is awesome, she’s awesome, and he was awesome too.  This was the best of conversations on the trip so far.  I felt a connection to these two.  The man of the house and I bantered back and forth about anything and everything through the whole weekend over plenty of beers.  The woman of the house took us for some awesome tours on Saturday after Lauren, myself, and these two had toured around the city on bicycles for a few hours.  Omaha has a few stock yards that reminded me of the stock yards in Fort Worth, which happened to be a way more awesome place than I would have imagined back when I was there in 2011.  JH had to go to work in the early afternoon, as the band had a parade to march through.  KL took us around after we picked up her two unbelievably well behaved and pleasant children.  We had food truck tacos(inarguably one of the best things in the world) and went to the parade.  I love these types of fans fairs.  There is absolutely no reason for this many people to gather together, and yet they do it, just to show of, solicit, and advertise.  But I feel it is more than that.  Hometown parades are a bonding experience, and although most are there for solicitation, it really is a service to the greater community.  You can see how people and businesses make improvements through the years, but if you take a second and look at what you really see–parents holding their children’s hands, kids smiling and laughing, and people enjoying each others company.  I was glad to be a part of it.  

Once the parade was over and we convened at the house, JH meet up with me, and he and I went around to some microbreweries and talked about music and personal preferences.  This will remain one of my more memorable moments of the trip.  JH commutes a fair distance to work every day, as does KL, but JH was taking me on the trip of a life time-for me anyways.  He is a seasoned street rider, and he blows through the roads with an intensity that I’ve yet to see paralleled.  When we were in Chicago and   had our seasoned vet escort us out of the city, it was intense.  When I was with JH on this day, it was near reckless, and I loved it.  We were weaving through traffic and bombin’ down hills like I have never done.  It was also an extreme pleasure because we had no weight to bare, and I feel in love with my bicycle as a machine I could use on a day to day basis upon my return to Asheville, at this very moment.  We came down one hill that took us back to the KL/JH residence and my computer clocked us at thrifty four miles per hour, a new personal record(PR) at this point.  I hooked up some Thai food for all of us, and we had organized a vehicular escort to pick us up later on the next day, so we got to chill on Sunday morning.  JH and I had more beers, and more great conversation was had by all of us as the night went on.  

We took it very, very easy on Sunday morning, waited for our ride, who was the cousin of our hosts in Iowa City, who put us up with her sister in Grinell the next night, and here we are in the next state, staying with another family member.  These types of connections are so awesome, and one of the reasons why traveling like this has a huge up on other forms of travel.  Unless you go to bars, it is hard  to come across people in this manner who are willing to extend their network into yours, often seeming to over compensate, because we seem so limited by our mode of transportation.  Very cool.

A storm is brewing and the cousins arrive.  They are just leaving their sons graduation, who just graduated from UNO(University of Nebraska, Omaha).  We feel like we are making good time, since we are traveling straight north, which is out of the way of our destination, which is Norfolk, NE, which is situated more east, but still north east.  This alternate route is being executed because of the storm that you can see, as NE is flat, and is obviously about to become very, very nasty.  As the weather reports unfolded, we had to find shelter from near golf ball sized hail.  As further wether reports unfolded, the outskirts of Omaha were hit by a rather large tornado, and our host had posted a video on facebook of the wind ravaging their street.  This shit was intense, and the fact that we had organized this ride, with these great people, through this terrible weather, turned out to be more lucky than we could have ever imagined.  We made it to Norfolk, where we knew that we were going to take another rest day, as the weather reports had indicated that it was going to be cold, and rainy.  

Cold indeed-thirty some-odd degrees, and windy.  Tucked tight, we had organized with our host to cook Thai food, as today is Lauren’s birthday, and this was her one birthday wish.  You can not go wrong with Thai food twice in three days, or two days, or one day for that matter.  The husband had to leave town for work, and his wife and son were available to chauffeur myself to a grocery store to gather this dinner, and future provisions, as we have known that once we hit Nebraska, warmshowers hosts and campgrounds, not to mention grocery or convenience stores were becoming a thing of the past.  Planning is important at this point.  Dinner was great, and the company was very nice on the cold and gloomy day.  

They showed us some of the wood work the husband of the house had completed, and it was truly world class.  His brother had died in his late forties or early fifties from cancer, and he had always wanted to build a canoe from wood, so upon his death, the husband took on this role as a memoriam to his deceased brother.  This was the nicest canoe I’ve seen in all my years, and everything else he had done and was teaching his sone to do were of the same quality.  We had a long day planned ahead and an early bed time was in order.

We were excited to attack this day after being locked inside because of the weather, and also because our entire route was going to consist of one road, a bicycle trail dubbed the Cowboy Trail, for the entire ride.  Our destination was O’Neill, NE, and it was going to be a long haul with prevailing winds pushing strong.  

Step 1-alter plan to  different route as Cowboy trail is indeed unfit for touring bikes.  Choppy bullshit, pink quartz, gem wannabe, fucking shiester trail is what it should have been called.  We were pushing around six miles an hour on the gravel, and eight miles an hour on the pavement, with the went coming against us.  Getting there 33% quicker sounds awesome, pavement it is.  

Step 2- If your goal is to go north west, you should never turn left.  We turned left.  After making amazing time and covering 24miles rather easily with the wind to our backs, we realized that we had went 24miles out of the way.  It is quicker to continue on an alternate route, but round trip is going to put us 35+ miles out of our way, which is terrible, since we already had to go 80some miles against the wind to begin with.  The wind was treacherous, and seemed to be a mockery to our existence.  after we reach a lunch point, we sit down, and throw up the thumb.

A nice man doing lawn services lets us throw the bikes on his fresh grass clippings, and we sit in the truck with a break from the wind, for six miles.  This was as far as he was going, but at the least this was an hour time saver.  We pedal to the nearest gas station, which has coffee, and hope to come across another ride.  The plan at this point was to camp at a church, and we had spoken with the pastor a few times already about what we were doing, when we were going to be there, and the like.  Today I had spoke with him again about our predicament, and how it wasn’t going to work out.  Tough luck.

After an hour, we give up hope on catching a ride and decide to just plop on another church lawn in the next town, 11 miles away.  We’ll be getting there around seven p.m.  Unwilling to accept our current fate, I look at the advertisement on the side of a large diesel with a trailer, and it says O’Neill, NE, on the side.  

“Hello, Sir?”

“Uh, yeah?”

“Goin’ to O’Neill?”

“I am.”

“Okay.  I know you have never seen me before, but my girlfriend and I am trying to make it to O’Neill today, and without the help of someone like yourself, that will not happen, and we will be forced to set up camp somewhere in the next 10 to 15 miles, and it is supposed to get down to 28degrees tonight.  Would you be willing to help us out?”

“Ha ha, I don’t know man.  I’ve never had any one ask me for a ride before.”

“Listen, I know it’s strange, but this is the only chance I’ve got, so I’m going with it.”

“Get your girl and let’s go.”….Fuckin’ A-right.

Once I get Lauren and we’re all loaded and in the truck, he mentions that it must have taken some balls to ask a total stranger for a ride, so if I was willing to do that, how could he say no.  It was his first hitch hiking experience-Glad I could pop your cherry.

I call the priest of the church, and he welcomes us, again, to sleep at the church, except he’ll put us inside as it is supposed to dip well below freezing tonight.  He’s out of town but his wife will meet us at the church. 

Get to the church, meet with the wife, she takes us to the basement, and introduces us to a new friend, Jr.  After the wife leaves, Jr offers to lock up the church and let us sleep at his house.  Sound super.  He throws us some cash for supper, and the keys to the old Chevy truck to grab some Mexican grub.  Come to find out, Jr. is running for a political office, uncontended, and the primaries are tonight, so once we get back to his house, radios blair loudly with the ring of political cheers and jeers.  He has offered to help us find a ride up the highway somehow, but was drawing a blank at the moment.  Perhaps the primaries took a primary seat in the interior of his cerebral cortex.  In the morning I sat with him while he made a few phone calls before conceding a ride would not happen going west.  Lauren and I have decided at this point that if anyone were going clear to the Rockies in Wyoming, we’d be willing to go the distance.  He called the local radio station and asked the radio host to put our pleas on the airwaves.  Regardless, now we pedal.  Onward.

We are pedaling, cold, windy, and relatively bitchy for the first few miles, we accept our current fate and strive further, one pedal stroke at a time.  I hear the sound of gears winding as an engine down shifts, and see a huge tractor trailer pull beside me in my peripherals.  

“You the bikers I just heard on the radio looking for a ride?”

“Yeah.” I holler back over the road noise and semi-engine clutter.

“Stop, I’m puling over for you.”….and righteous. 

We throw our bikes in the empty trailer bed, hop in the cabin, and he tells us that he heard our story on the radio, and figured we had to be the only ones that were crazy enough to be biking in the Nebraska on the highway at this time of year.  He also told us that his son had told him a story last night, about him picking up two cyclists form a gas station who were looking to cover some ground and stay in O’Neill, where he was going back home to.  What luck.  He is only going 44 miles, but that is more than a half-days journey for us.  Once he drops us off, with some ridiculously good home made cookies(he used to own a bakery before his wife went into some health complications and he had to take a job as a trucker to be able to spread his time and money out), we pedal twelve more miles to a town called Ainsworth, NE.  We try to hitch hike from here, unsuccessful and bike to a town called Johnstown.  A friend of Lauren and mine has a friend in Johnstown, who’s house had flooded the night before and couldn’t host us, but he had a friend who worked at the post office, who lived in a town called Valentine, who would drive us there.  He also had a friend in Valentine who wasn’t on warmshowers but had helped folks out before.  We sit at the post office for a few hours, and the friend of a friend’s wife actually delivers us some cheesecake and other sweets.  It was the friend of a friends birthday(lucky us).  Sweet shit is tha shit after pedaling against the wind for eight hours.  The post office man took us to the Snake River, and this is the moment that my eyes begin to open, and I start to realize that Nebraska is totally underrated.

We call the lady friend in Valentine, she sounds stuffy, but accepting of our situation, and willing to put us up.  Post-office man drives us to her house, and she seems kinda stuffy in person as well, but says “kids, when you are in Nebraska, you eat steak.”  She took us to a little dive spot in a flat-one floor motel, and it-fucking-rocked.  I’ve got a little restaurant and culinary experience, and to the people who know the industry is in their hearts, this is the little hole in the wall that makes your wet dreams come true.  An unsuspecting dive, that without the neon signs lit, you wouldn’t be the wiser to it even being open for business.  The set up is cramped, but the food is absolutely perfect.  Lauren had a NY Strip that could rival-equally- most that I’ve had.  I had a brisket/pulled pork combo sandwich that almost brought tears to my eyes.  Perfect coleslaw, a decent bun, gobs of thoroughly melted cheese, and a side of grilled fries-yes, grilled, fries.  Shit was dank to the tenth degree.

Our new host(dubbed for our purposes as Major), with her two young boys, took us for a tour of Valentine.  My eyes continue to open to Nebraska, and I believe that I am falling in love with the state.  After a few conversations with Major(think Joseph Heller) she says that she is going to play hooky tomorrow, and transport us what ends up being around 180 miles, which is four days in ‘bike time’.  Not only that, she is going to take us into South Dakota and let us roam around the Badlands.  Holy shit, shit just took a major turn.  She takes us through some National Park lands as the moon came up, and the full moon lit up the ground for exploration as we took the minivan on bumpy dirt roads.  Maybe Major’s stuffiness was only a temporary cold that had been alleviated.

We wake in the morning, load up the gear, and hit the road after a ballin’ ass breakfast that Major had hooked up for from some of the leftovers the night before and we drank plenty of coffee.  After the kids take off for school we head off through the plains, and the landscape becomes more amazing as every mile passes.  We swing through an American Indian Reservation that invoked a somber mood; government housing totally neglected and run down, trash every where.  We had seen a few filthy properties on this drive, as some of the people who live here have taken it on themselves to use their lawns as dumps since there is clearly no where within a reasonable distance to sling your trash.  It was honestly kinda sad.   Once we refuel and the landscape turns back to uninhabited, Major cranks the radio, and proceeds to put on one of the more amazing performances of my life.  She couldn’t sing particularly well, but she did something that I love to do, and continued to play steering wheel drums to every song that came on while we cruised down the road in the minivan at over 90mile per hour.  She was a teen in the ’80’s, and had clearly owned the albums of, and had be to the concerts of every artist that came on Classic Vinyl, and Classic Rewind on Sirius XM.  We played name that tune and band for points- she knocked my fuckin’ socks off.  Blew me out of the water with a score of something like 55 to 12.  My youth could not be foiled at this point.  

We come to the Badlands and eat at the restaurant just past the entrance.  Major had explained to us that she was from ‘old money’, and we won’t have to worry about too much today.  The food was decent, but I am more excited about this National Park than almost anything I’ve been excited for, because 1) my friends had visited here on an epic road trip and the pictures inspired me, and 2) we were not coming here despite being so close.  One truth has remained through our journey thus far, and nothing is convenient when you are on a bicycle. Badlands was not supposed to happen because our time frame would not allow.  The fact that I am here right now is beyond me, and despite how desolate and sparse NE was supposed to be, not to mention cold and windy, the warmth of people that we have met that we are now seriously ahead of what our schedule was, and are getting to see amazing things that we were not supposed to see.  I’m so stocked at this point I can barely contain myself, not to mention that Major blared the tunes that warmed my soul.  After this many weeks on the road, listening to the same classic rock station that I’ve heard my entire life that you can almost guess the set list to, broadcast through my home town, sounds like the best thing ever.  These weren’t that radio station, but the music was on point.

We get to the first hiking point, walk a ways, and start to read some of the historical boards placed throughout the walking paths.  I see pictures of people in the 1920’s and ’30’s with their Model T’s and picnic blankets thrown out with vast amounts of food, experiencing the same views that I am now, and the only thing that I could think was how when Fred T. designed the Model T, he clearly had a different vision of what traveling was supposed to be in comparison to the person who invented the bicycle.  God bless the automobile; at this point, I’m experiencing first world problems, and so glad to be traveling with Lauren and Major in the minivan.

The views around Badlands are so amazing, the structures, rock formations, and life around is mind boggling.  After we peace outta the Badlands, we end up taking a wrong turn, and Major decides that we might as well drive through the Black Hills and see Mt. Rushmore anyways, even though we had discussed how it wasn’t an option earlier that day.  Life gets better and better.  We stop in Rapid City, walk around the town which seems pretty darn awesome, and then drive by the Presidents, forever etched in stone, providing their faces don’t erode off.  We also saw what was completed of the Crazy Horse memorial, and then continued on our journey to a place called Fort Robinson, in Harrison, NE.  Major paid for our room, the time had changed to Mountain Time, and she had to get back to Central Time, and it was now 1:00a.m. Mountain Time, and she had 180+ miles to go.  God speed, Major.  Thank you for my most memorial moments of the trip.  JH and LK, thanks to you, for allowing me to connect with folks other than Lauren, on a personal level for the first time in a  month.  And thanks to Nebraska, for taking the ranks as one of the most underrated places in the nation.  Even though we saw so much in South Dakota, and it was bitchin’, Nebraska has earned a spot in my soul.  

 

 

 

Week 3-Iowa

IMG_0498 IMG_0500 IMG_0512 IMG_0514 IMG_0520 IMG_0522 IMG_0525 IMG_0536 IMG_0537 IMG_0527It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial. This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended. My family, I know you’ll still love me. My friends, the same. Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will. Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me. God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

Week 3

May 5-May 11

So we wake with at our hosts house on the Mississippi.  A few interesting tid-bits came from the night before.  This guy, who was a retired, had completed two 3-century rides.  One was a try for a four century in one day, but when he got to mile 350 his leg started to cramp and once he got to mile 360 he had to retire for the day.  He and his wife had also biked from Pacific Ocean to Atlantic Ocean in 17 days.  These things are wild to me, as I have no interest in ever biking these types of distances.  Still they are very impressive feats.  

Once our ride continues on in the morning, we are shooting for Iowa City, and will cross the Mississippi River at Davenport.  After biking a few miles, we notice our host/guide at the moment was, as Lauren put so well, aloof.  It seemed like this dude didn’t pay attention to shit.  The night before as he relived his glory years by sharing his neat stories, and they were neat, he had told us how many bones he had broken, broken helmets, things of this nature, and his list was extensive.  After riding behind this guy for twenty miles the day before and then over forty on this day, it was clear as to why he had broken so many bones.  He talked with his hands waving every which way, swerved over traffic lanes, and just seemed generally unaware of his body in space.  The first five miles or so Lauren and I were snickering about this newly obvious discovery.  About ten miles later I could feel the heat being produced from Lauren’s anger through her back and from ten or more feet away.  Not only did our now guide swerve like a total drunk, he was pressing along at around seven miles an hour.  Lauren is watching her GPS the whole time and just teaming with all sorts of bad thoughts as this aloof retiree leads us through towns while our miles to the next destination stays the same.  He was showing us things.  I like seeing things and so does Lauren but on a bike, at seven miles an hour when you’re trying to make around eighty, is not the right time.  We’ve been in this situation before.  The super awesome thing about my recognition of Lauren’s current state is that she never had to say a word, or make a gesture for me to feel her anger.  As we pull to a Long John Silvers because there was nothing at all within two miles Lauren proclaims “I’m fucking telling him.”

She was kind about it and just needed to blow off some steam, and eat.  I’ve also noticed an undeniable irritability associated with Lauren’s level of hunger.  This is the day I started to make the joke to her about, and in my best rapper meets children’s story book reader voice “Feed the bear; you gotta feed the bear or she gets angry.  Don’t forget to feed the bear.” The bear was angry, but things feel into place rather easily.  Once back on track, he takes us to a more main highway and we proceed to have what is one of the more exhilarating experiences of my trip yet.  Going down an old highway with twenty mile an hour winds to our backs, we averaged around twenty two mph for over an hour.  It was so much fun and compounded with the fact that I have never seen anything like the new landscape in the new state, Iowa, that we were in it was pretty bad ass.  Stopped at a Subway for lunch and our guide split back the other way,  Lauren and I on our on in corn country with warm weather and the wind to our back.  Beautiful.

We roll into Iowa city and it was noticeably younger than any town we’ve been in yet.  It was interesting to see all the people out age doing things out in the streets and fields.  Sports, exercise, games, sculling; we didn’t know Iowa’s largest university was in Iowa city.  We got to our host’s house and have some seriously amazing company, and I finished my two finals this night and wrapped up my first year of grad school.  The company was great.  We had a compilation effort for dinner where I participated and It was awesome.  Lauren and I ate a half a gallon of ice cream by ourselves.  The hosts ate ice cream too, but she and I had at least a half gallon between the two of us.  Our host also helped us out a great, great deal, as Lauren and I had a looming problem with only one real answer; we were running out of warm shower hosts as the population gets thinner and thinner as you go from Iowa to Nebraska and then into Wyoming.  The population just gets less and less which means that warm shower hosts become farther apart.  Iowa had a decent dry stretch but our host had a sister the next town over and a cousin in Nebraska that she hooked us up with.  Awesome timing.  

I made some protein pancakes in the morning and our new host also guides us out of Iowa CIty.  She was seriously awesome and her husband too.  We watched the Iowa State Sculling Team practice off their front porch all night while we prepped and ate dinner, and then she helped us with future boarding, then lead us out of town.  She was too cool.  

We roll out of Iowa City heading for Grinell to stay at her sisters, and the day started out as beautifully as the second half of our day before had went…Well almost.  I learned two very important lessons on this day.  The first is that if anyone ever told you that Iowa was flat, just don’t trust them with your kids, because they are a fucking liar.  Second lesson is that Iowa has a specific name for paved roads; they call them interstates.  We had more hills and gravel roads than I ever would have imagined.  It was all loose pack gravel too because it was freshly laid.  I remember our first stretch of dirt road for the day had a line of gravel set off center.  I told Lauren “It looks like we’ll be meeting a scraper soon. This gravel was just dumped by the truck so the scraper’s gotta come spread it out”  It’s a curse being right all the time, it really is.  Three miles later, there’s the spreader, and our day just got a lot worse.  Dirt roads are great on a bike when they are dry.  They are almost better than pavement sometimes because it is packed so hard, and almost everything is more enjoyable with a dirt road thrown in.  Gravel roads on the other hand are a total freaking nightmare.  No traction and tons of sliding on the only things you can do.  Going super slow is the only remedy and going slow sucks.  Lauren’s tires are way better than mine except in gravel.  At one point our gravel road even turned into a grass road.  In Iowa they have these signs that say “Level B Maintenance” and “Travel at Own Risk”.  We had already been so frustrated with the gravel that the grass road just made us laugh.  It’s funny how over exposure to a bad thing can resolve into laughter.

We get to Grinell and have more awesome hosts with awesome food, ice cream, and peach pie.  Life is good. I lied before; this was actually the night I finished my two finals, if it means anything.  From Grinell we head to Des Moines.  I had only ever heard two things about Iowa before being there and the first was it was flat(flat fucking wrong) and the second was a heavy metal band out of Des Moines that I listened to a lot in my youth.  THe ride from Grinell to Des Moines was rough with hills and more gravel and no paved roads, known as interstates, made our lives easier.  It’s not fair to say there were no paved roads, but a lot of our time was wasted on the gravel stones.  Dirt is fine, gravel is crime.  We finally make it to Des Moines and I get a flat tire right outside of the what we had later found out to be the ghetto.  Let’s get real though; a ghetto?  It’s fucking Iowa.  Bike tire flat is fixed in twenty to thirty, and we are only 3.2miles from our next hosts house.  We were heckled more on this 3.2 mile stretch than the rest of our trip combined.  I hate being heckled and I also hate confrontation and Lauren has no problem slinging the middle finger and shouting back at people.  I like to stay safe and pretend nothing is going on.  I always have a fear that my retaliation would bring about my demise, or at least end with me getting hit with a Slushy.  Lauren doesn’t care.  I think it’s kinda hot looking back on it, but in the moment I just wish it would all go away.  In between all the dead corn and the anger, no fuckin’ wonder this band wrote heavy metal all the time.  I’d go nuts in Iowa.  This didn’t stop things from being enjoyable, as when we got to our hosts house, it was sick.  Such a nice pad, and such nice people.  Another compilation dinner and this was borderline unbelievable.  Lauren had mentioned something about mac&cheese and this host whipped it up from scratch.  Scratch mac&cheese isn’t really something you whip up because it’s Wednesday.  It was awesome, as was the whole meal and the company.  After chatting the husband, a therapist and manager of a large therapy company, tells us that given our interest, he would like to take us to the hospital he works at and get us to meet the CEO of the hospital.  We are interested in covering some ground and still have the goal of getting to the west coast as quickly as possible.  The wife offers to drive us to our next host’s house and take us to sit with the CEO of the hospital.  Count us in. 

Lauren is accepted into medical school, and I am in a masters program where I hope to make a move into the hospital industry after putting all my prior focus in hospitality.  Having the opportunity to talk to this guy is cool for the both of us, and he still practices as a doctor, while also taking a week long trip to South America to educate the residents at his place and also help out in less fortunate areas.  This is more of what Lauren is interested in, as she has spent time in South America, Rwanda, and North Carolina trying to help what is officially termed as the under served.  It was super neat to sit down for an hour and just talk about things that are happening.  I’ve come to realize that as much as I love the hospitality industry and the time that I spent in it, these services only give people things. I don’t relay care for things, where as the services provided by the health care field give people necessity based items.  The hospitality field can help folks as well, but I like the direct impact of giving to people in need.  Maybe I haven’t figured the whole thing out yet either though.

After talking for a while the wife host takes us to a Vietnamese restaurant in Des Moines, and then hauls us to our next host location.  This is a pretty long drive and the weather was unfavorable for biking so this was an optimal situation.  Lauren and I slept more in the car ride than we were awake.  It’s amazing how much you can eat when you are traveling over sixty five miles a day on a bicycle and it is also amazing how tired you can be without realizing.  People say you tend to normalize and the muscle soreness goes away after the second week.  I have yet to agree with either of the above statements.  My legs have never been so sore that I felt limited but there is indeed a constant ache and tenderness, specifically when I move my legs in certain directions.  Even with two rest days in a row things can still feel very tender.  We’ll see if time heals as my legs strengthen even more, or if it is just the price ow pay to play the game.  

We arrive at our new host house after a kind of quick drive.  It is now apparent that warmshowers.org is saving us a bunch of money while also adding to our comfort levels.  It is an interesting concept that people are so willing to help total strangers, but there is a common ground shared between host and traveler.  Worst case scenario you can talk about the act of cycling.  Many people want to talk about the bikes themselves.  I haven’t even really rode a bike since I was fourteen or fifteen so this sort of talk is either over my head or something I just don’t generally care about.  Our new host house seems interesting.  They told us to enter even though no one was there.  We hung for a little while before the wife and daughter showed up; this became a moment where I realized something deep in my head.  The wife was so soft spoken that she was barely audible.  I found myself asking her to repeat a few times as she was to quite to hear.  Once I had observed this women’s tender voice for about thirty minutes I had realized that my ears had a deep ring.  Road noise is something I had taken for granted on the trip.  Between the wind and the traffic there is a lot of noise received over the course of a day, not to mention a few weeks.  It was the same sound you hear in your head the day after a concert or a NASCAR event.  If you’ve ever experienced these types of events without ear plugs then you know what I am referring to.  As each word left here mouth the more the rings level would elevate.  I was very appreciative of this quite time.  A storm was rolling through this farm property of Iowa and the rain on the barn out back was such a beautiful sound after letting my ears calm down for a few hours.

The husband entered almost two hours later.  He bikes to work most days; a near 13 mile trek in one direction and irregardless of weather unless it is just too cold.  He was funny, and very loud.  He sounded like the guy from the “I Love You Man” during the slappin’ de bass, skit.  After being around this character an hour it was very clear as to why his wife was so soft spoken.  He had said the he was going to ride to Omaha with us the next day and camp outside of the city.  “Sweet; we love company.”

We had planned our route and things were underway before we started, at least in our minds.  The host, being that this was his turf, knew a better route, so that is the way we took.  Better is a term of relativity, and it was clear that his relationship with the term “better” had a different meaning than ours.  The one true unfortunate issue of our journey is time.  We have a deadline for Lauren to get back so she can start med school well prepared so most of our days are spent trying to get as far as possible in as little time as possible.  Our planned route had us going around 61 miles.  At the end of our journey is was 79miles logged.  If someone tells you they are going to add nearly 33% of anything to your day it could be god or bad.  When pushing a bike with a bunch of weight across the ground is what you are adding to your six hour day just turned into eight or more.  Lauren was a bit aggravated at the end of our day with good reason.  This was one of the first times that I had also shared her sentiment.  

The tide of our day had started to turn around lunch time when we realized that our host had us on the long route.  Whatev’s.  We’re already doing it now so let’s just keep on.  Prevailing winds against us, miles getting added on to the trip as well as time, and a very talkative host.  I’ve had to wait a few weeks to write this portion, as I needed to think about how to present the information without coming off as a bit of a cynic.  This guy and I enjoyed each others company the night before and he really is a great guy, we just have very differing opinions.  I don’t want to take anything away from a decent dude because we were like oil and water but we had no business being together.  On two separate occasions I had told him that we had no business talking about the subjects that we were.  He obliged rather easily as I think it was clear to him as well that we needed to change the subject.  It started with some issues regarding Iowa.  He had talked about how beautiful Iowa was the whole time.  His opinion, but mine is that Iowa is the ugliest state that I have been to yet. If you like looking at dead corn on a rather boring landscape with no back drop, Iowa is your place.  His opinion; I got it.  He started to talk about how RoundUp is non toxic and how you can drink it, and how commercial farming doesn’t poison the water table.  Iowa cities have to release warnings of high nitrate levels because infants die from drinking the water that comes from the tap.  This is a fertilization issue, but with the RoundUp he had stated that it was fit for human consumption and saw a farmer drink it once.  I told him that this farmer had an obviously lower value on his life than I did.  This guy argued that you get no tax deductions when you buy a house; he was fifty seven and had been paying rent his whole life.  If you are reading this don’t ever do this to your kids.  Go buy a house and watch your net worth grow and save money on taxes.  This guy was beyond outspoken against gay marriage but couldn’t understand why people had an issue with marrying your first cousin.  “Doesn’t say anything about it in the Bible.”  You may be right, Mr., but seriously; WTF?  He had told us this ridiculous story about how he had got his cousin into biking and that they had joked with their families about if anything ever happened to their spouses that they would move to a state where marrying your first cousin was legal.  Said cousin was in a huge domestic violence issue with all sorts of physical and verbal abuse, but they couldn’t divorce because then they would go to hell.  Ain’t that a bitch?  After we got to Omaha Lauren had pointed out that he wouldn’t talk on the phone around us and he was super sketchy and secretive about his conversations.  One time he told us to ride ahead and he would meet us in a couple miles so he could talk on the phone.  Most people don’t keep secrets about talking to their wife on the phone.  The seed had been planted and we had a consensus that this guy was bangin’ prostitutes on the reg during his camping trip.  The last thing I said to him as we parted ways was “Don’t let any of them wild women get ya at the campground.”  Who knows the truth, and it is not fair of us to make these speculations, however at this point and time this is where we were.  He was a total baller, though, and biked this entire day towing a trailer on a single speed.  The conditions were terrible, and this was, and still is undoubtedly my least favorite day of the trip.  There was no flat ground for the entire day, the wind was 25mph plus against us, the road had a crack every 10 yards for the whole 79miles, and this guy made me realize I might be an introvert.  He talked more than Spike; way more.  Now he wasn’t rude, at all, and despite our differing opinions and the hopefully false assumptions of infidelity, he really was a great dude.  We just weren’t meant to hang for long.  9 hours later, I was ready to pull in front of the tractor trailers that were on the un-fucking-believably busy highway he had taken us on.  What a guy; knew the way there, took us the “scenic” route on the busiest fucking highway that wasn’t an interstate, which had no shoulder, were we were heckled the most of our entire trip.  Trucks in the opposing lane were even honking at us, people were yelling, and the wind never stopped.  Mr., at the end of this day I can say with full conviction, I hope our paths never have to cross again.

We pulled into Omaha, met our new hosts, and things were awesome.  They’ll start the next week.

 

Week 2

IMG_0458 IMG_0460 IMG_0474 IMG_0475 IMG_0476 IMG_0475 IMG_0479 IMG_0481 IMG_0482 IMG_0487 IMG_0488 IMG_0489It is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial. This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended. My family, I know you’ll still love me. My friends, the same. Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will. Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me. God knows I’ll need everything I can get.IMG_0490Weeks 2 Illinois

Week by week, the journey continues.  Lauren recovered well form her spill, We had a solid three days rest with the great host family in Owensboro, KY, and It’s time to be back on the road.  Going date by date seems to be less interesting, to me anyways, rather we will speak by situation, and I will date when I feel necessary.  Wreck on Sunday, rest Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday we make our way towards Carterville, Illinois.  This is a long distance; 125 miles.  Lauren and I are a bit ridiculous, but not unrealistic.  We knew that 125miles was unrealistic, but luckily one of my college roommates lives in Carterville and has offered to pick us up wherever we are once she gets off of work, and she has also purchased us train tickets to go from neighboring city, Carbondale, to Chicago.  Chicago was not on the original itinerary but Alison threw out the offer to put us on Amtrack, and the thought of covering that much ground in that short of time, have near six hours of free wifi, going to what many of my friends have stated as one of the best cities in the nation, and one of Lauren’s very close friends lives there, it became a no brainer.  Wifi is important as I have two finals due in two weeks.  Step 1-get to Carterville.

April 30

It is known by a few folks that know me that I can be over-accommodating, to the point that I can neglect some of my own wants.  Whatever level this may occur on, even though my dear friend Alison in Carterville said she’d pick us up from wherever,  I still knew I wanted to make it at least 80 miles so she didn’t have to drive an hour and a half each way to us, and back home.  Illinois is pretty flat, and flat unlike anything I’ve ever seen up in northern Illinois.  This is a total blessing after Kentucky, which was  laden with unrelenting hills.  There is a trade of directly associated with the lack of hills, however, and that is wind.  The wind was very strong, and again, we made the ever wise decision to go from the east to the west.  It still wasn’t as bad as having the wind on us on day four in KY, where we made it twelve miles in two and a half hours.  Wide open spaces; I, for a while anyways, appreciated the flat, dead cornfields.  It was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.  Being in the piedmont and coastal plains of North Carolina breaks my soul after a while.  I was born and raised in the mountains, and I do miss them when I’m gone for a stretch of time.  Illinois made North Carolina’s flat lands look well endowed.  Throw in the fact that it is a bunch of fuckin’ dead corn and there you have what Illinois was like. We still had a few seventy miles in KY before the Illinois line, however.  One thing that must be know about Lauren, the strong one, is that she has the  ability to make friends with people immediately.

It must be made perfectly clear that Lauren can make friends with anyone, regardless of situation, instantaneously.  We were near seventy miles in, day light was fading as the cloud cover and threat of rain loomed over all day, and it was becoming increasingly more cold as the day went on.  This was the first day that I wore arm warmers for the entirety of the trek.  Three miles from the Illinois & KY border is a gas station.  I walk out of the store after a pee break as Lauren walks in, and this very tall, clearly corn feed, broad shouldered stranger looks at me with a smile on his face, multiple teeth missing, and states how he appreciates what we are doing.  

“Hey, thanks man!” I reply. 

After chatting for a few moments I realize that he wasn’t fucked up on any hard core drugs, skin looked clear, eyes looked right, maybe he just suffered from poor genetics.  He had four Mountain Dews in his hands, and we proceeded to chat about the journey Lauren and I were on, and how far we had to go.  He was hauling lumber on a flat bed transfer truck and had been awake since ten a.m. the morning before.  Some how, Lauren got us and our bikes in tow of this truck driver and across the state line.  

The truck driver and myself hoisted the bikes on top of the lumber stacks, as there was no where fit them on the bed of the trailer itself.  Bikes, saddle bags and all are placed atop the lumber, and strapped down very tightly.  Lauren and I enter the cabin where I feel uncertainty.  It also must be known that as much as Lauren can make friends with people, I am, despite being usually confident sometimes and overly positive, can be a bit of a pessimist at times.

“Do you think this is a good idea?”  I mumble to her as we enter the cabin, hoping the sounds of the Volvo diesel engine will muffle our conversation.  She laughs at my concern, assuring me that there is nothing to worry about. 

I don’t look for the bad in things; I just realize were there is an opportunity for a S.N.A.F.U. and generally try to stay away from those situations.  I often have to have conversations with myself that go something like this; we’ll apply it to this situation to keep the story rolling…

“What are we doing, and if so, why?  Is there an alternative, and what is the safest.”  Pretty reasonable, right?  My conversation with myself continues…. “What could go wrong?”  Before you know it, I’m convinced that the truck driver is going to pull out a Glock, and point it at me.  Fairy white boy in spandex is forced to exit the cabin while girlfriend sits on the truckers bunk.  I have these types of thoughts when I recognize that there could potentially be an issue.  These conversations always, always end with me telling myself, “Dude, shut the fuck up and live a little.”  I can’t let my own fears interfere with living the life that was given to me.  I also can’t be completely unrealistic in thinking that these types of troubles would never happen to me; the battle of evermore, clearly.

This guy was nice; near twenty Mountain Dew bottles rolled around on the floor in bags and loose, excluding the four he just bought.  If I had to drive a truck, without sleep for over thirty six hours, who knows; maybe I’d have some Mountain Dew too.  On second thought……

I talk to my friend Alison, who is getting married in June, whose wedding I won’t be able to attend, who is definitely a true friend, and she is going to meet us in somewhere, Illinois.  

“What type of vehicle are you in?” I ask.  

“A Hyundai SUV, and you?”

“A large white Volvo.”

Upon arrival and transfer of bikes from lumber stack to ground and into Hyundai, we drive to Carterville and settle on Mexican for dinner.  This doubled as my birthday celebration, as it was my birthday.  I always feel bad for people who have Feliz Cumpleanos sung to them very loudly with percussive instruments banging, and sitting in a flimsy sombrero that was involuntarily placed on their head.  When Lauren somehow negotiated this to happen to me, and perhaps it was circumstantial, I thoroughly enjoyed myself.  I’m a sucker for fried ice cream, too.

May 1-Amtrack to Chicago.

The time change happened at some point yesterday, from Eastern to Central.  Our train was leaving at 7:20, fifteen minutes to get to the station, and fifteen minutes to unload our gear, and thirty minutes allotted to be thirty minutes early to the station.  Lauren and I both wake with an exceptional amount of light in the room.  Scrambling to get ready, frightened that we’ve seriously screwed ourselves, we realize that it is 5:20a.m.  Time change.

Amtrack is a neat way to travel.  The opportunity-realizing-being that I am realizes that in an airplane, shit can turn bad very quickly.  I’m not sure why I feel so much more secure on trains, but it was a pleasurable experience.  Lot of school work done, got to see nearly all of Illinois from a one track, south to north perspective, and drank lots of coffee.  

Arriving at Union Station was sick, too.  Millions upon millions of people have went to and from the Windy City via this amazing piece of infrastructure.  Inside, it was probably the tallest ceilings I’ve even been sheltered by, marble floors looked clean, comprehensive layout, and the sheer volume of human traffic was so impressive.  We make our way out to the street, recheck our gear, and start to bike through the city to Lauren’s friend, Paige’s apartment.  I’ve biked through a few cities now, and nothing was has been like biking through Chicago.  I loved it.  Bike lanes every where, however the roads were trashed with potholes from the extreme winter that most of the United States encountered.  It was cold, raining, puddles every where, bumpy, windy, and busy as anything I’ve ever seen, yet still was one of my favorite moments on a bike yet.  I felt like I fit in.  I hate inconveniencing people; I also hate being heckled by passing traffic.  Chicago’s bike-ability allowed me to avoid both of these things.  This is also the largest city I have ever been to, so seeing this number of people was amazing to me.  I love going to Charlotte, NC, even lived there for a while.  Charlotte is hardly a city in comparison to Chicago from a volume of human beings standpoint.  Two days with Paige, Lauren’s dear friend, real deep dish pizza, and this amazing city.  It was awesome.  

Paige has the likely hood of being the most accommodating and considerate individual I’ve ever met.  I’m sure this amplified my Chicago experience.  While she was at work, Lauren and I visited Lake Michigan, Lincoln Park Zoo, and milled around downtown.  I loved it there.  We biked out on Sunday, May 3, with the help of Paige with her boyfriend and super city cyclist, Christian.  I am so glad we had him because 1.  he knew where to take us to avoid terrible traffic, terrible roads, and sketchy neighborhoods, and 2. because he was super aggressive on the bike.  If it were me on my own, it would have taken at least twice as long, if not three times as long to not only navigate from a mapping standpoint, but from a traffic standpoint as well.  He whipped through the city traffic like a slalom skier, while still maintaing safety and reverence; totally rad.  The crazy thing about Chicago was that after biking for eleven miles and weaving through many different types of neighborhoods, you’re still in Chicago.

We had a bit of a late start and around 2p.m. we were ready for lunch.  We stopped at this place called Glen Ellyn.  Beautiful town, clearly tourist driven, however.  Before we can get on the sidewalk, this very interested male cyclist strikes up a conversation with us.  I didn’t find him very interesting at all at this point, so I tried to keep us on our path, as we were running out of time to eat and go to where we were going.  We started looking up more warm shower hosts because we knew our original plan was surely a bust, and the number of miles we were going to travel was over shot.  Wind was bad again today.  This interested man insisted that we stay with him at his house.  Lauren got the heeby-jeebies from him immediately, and my brain was leaning towards “I’m not riding in a transfer truck and sleeping with this fucking creep all in the same week.”  We decide we need to elude our new encounter.  He was insistent on sharing maps with us.  Maps.  Fucking maps.

He leaves us to go to his house, and shows back up with a handful of maps around twenty minutes later.  We would not have been in a Subway for twenty minutes had we not been trying to contact warm showers hosts.  Shit.  He joins us at the table and starts pointing out all these routes that we “should” have taken out of Chicago and that we “should” be taking for the rest of our trip.  This could have been comical had we not been so low on time.  Frustrated, Lauren and I try to give social cues that we were going to be on our way, in his absence.  He also kept insisting that we not only take these routes he was proposing, but that we stay at his house, and then bike to his friends farm to stay in a spare cabin over eighty miles away.  These all sound great, but the dude seemed like a fuckin’ creep.  Somehow I find myself going to his house, for a very, very long thirty minutes, and then sitting in a small truck with Lauren cramped in the back, on the way to his friends cabin.  It has never been established if Lauren is actually taller than I am, but we go back and forth from time to time about who has the height advantage; she was twisted like a pretzel in this small truck cab, and for over two hours.  One thing about our new acquaintance was, with near certainty, he was the most inconsiderate person I’ve ever met.  It is with near certainty, rather than absolute certainty, because after all he was driving us over eighty miles in the right direction.  

“You can look on the map and follow along with where we are going.”

“Yeah that’s cool, Spike(we’ll call him Spike, because since he was one of the most aggravating individuals I’ve ever met, I’ll show respect by employing anonymity), but I don’t need to follow along since you know where we are going.”  Bothered by the fact that this extremely pushy, inconsiderate individual is my pilot for the next two hours, taking us to his friends house, I just have to accept my fate at this point.  Lauren’s tolerance for bullshit is realistically 50% less than mine, meaning that I can tolerate nearly two times the amount of bullshit than she can.  You have to remember that this tall beauty is not just smart, but also strong, and this can be a troublesome pairing when forced to sit in a small vehicle with an inconsiderate asshole for a few hours.  I recognized that Lauren had flipped her attention switch off within the first five minutes of being in the town with him, then at his house, not to mention the truck ride.  I’m still trying to find some good in the situation, besides just hitch hiking with him for nearly 90miles.  

“Look at the map here…” wherever that is “… and you will see this…” whatever “this” is, were repeated over and over again by this blunderer.  To say it was like a broken record wouldn’t do it much justice, as it was far worse.  His inconsideration is now humorous in hindsight, because he has no clue of his actions.  It was almost as though he had some sort of autism or Aspergers.  His mind was 100% in tact, but the level of social ineptitude has been unparalleled by anyone I’ve ever met.  Thank goodness he was nice enough to drive us like he did, cause I would have went totally sheep-shit if I had to spend too much time with this guy without getting anything in return.  Lauren felt bad for him, saying that he was just excited to be around cyclists, as he has toured on his bike all over the world, and just wanted some folks to talk to.  This guy would ask either of us a question, and once a reply would commence, he would immediately interrupt us and start to file his own answer, about us, to himself.  It was beyond comical.  Spike also was insistent on talking about things that he has, and things that his friend has.  I don’t really care for things; I’m simple in nature and enjoy experiences, and although an experience could be a thing, a hike through the Appalachian Mountains gives me more than owning a big screen TV.  I can’t really remember the last time I watched TV on my own accord.  Things aren’t really that awesome unless they provide you something in particular.  Saying that I love drums is an understatement, but if I had a thousand drums I would never bore you with the details, unless you were just as interested as I and asked questions about them.  Spike doesn’t share my sentiments.  

Insistent on my following of our paths on a map, he kept releasing the steering wheel and taking his eyes off the road to point where we were on the map.  I tried to play along because at least now the distraction of map searching could temporarily block the incessant jibber-jabber of Spike.  He took us through Fermilab, a particle accelerator, and the second largest particle accelerator in the world.  I’m not entirely sure of what happens in a particle accelerator but from what I’ve ever heard about it, it sounds near terrifying.  I am simple, and with simplicity comes an inherent level of stupidity, or better put as a lack of understanding.  Any of you science folks out there could speak of these things in detail, I’m sure.  I’d look forward to being schooled about particle acceleration if the opportunity arises. 

With a half-assed effort of map following while Lauren keeps to herself we continue through flat and rural Illinois to Spike’s friend’s house.  Once we get there, thankfully, we interrupt a family birthday party; of course we would.  It was cool though; ribs, sausages, beers, cakes and ice cream, not to mention a very welcoming group of people.  Spike’s friend was very, very cool.  I almost wonder, now in hindsight, that Spike’s friend might have been trying to compensate for his pal.  These two have been friends for nearly three decades, so I’m sure he was accustomed to Spike’s ridiculousness.  The whole group was badass too, and I found out that Spike, as annoying as he was, was a fan of Tom Waits-that earns some cool points in my book, but also explained a bit of Spike’s personality.  Once bed time rolled around, the friend walked us onto the back porch and pointed to the cabin, some 600 or 700 yards down the farm land.  Spike drove us out to the cabin, which had no electricity or bathroom, but was really badass all in all.  Candles lit up the night, and the only stipulation laid out by the friend was that we had to watch the husky that was boarded in the cabin.  Spike almost invited himself to stay in the cabin; awkward.  He did pick up on that one social cue, but missed the twenty more that Lauren and I were lettin’ fly over the next hour while he stood in the exit way of the cabin and talked about how ridiculous our route was, due to the fact we were going from east to west.  Thanks for your input.

Spike finally leaves, and we’ve got this cabin to ourselves, lit by candles, and companionship from this massive yet friendly husky that we called Yao Ming.  Letting Yao Ming out was no problem, and the friend had given us food to give to him.  Lauren and I had seemed to grow towards each other as we had shared an experience of suffering that lasted all too long.  As the mood heightened and an easing tension filled the air, Yao Ming had the loudest and longest vomiting session I’ve ever heard from a living animal two feet from our bed.  I look down, and he has purged a pile that was over a gallon of solids and liquid; impressive to say the least.  I spend a few minutes on my hands and knees cleaning up the mess, while Lauren fades into dream land.  Great job Yao Ming; after enduring Spike’s bitch ass for well over nine hours and biking out of Chicago city traffic, you took away what few moments that could have built the one enjoyable experience of my day.  You suck almost as bad as the basketball player right now.  

The cabin was a bit chilly in the morning as the air outside was just above freezing.  As we get our things together my phone rings.  This is an odd occurrence because do to my current level of responsibility I have not been receiving phone calls.  The only people that care enough to keep up with me usually don’t do so via phone call either, plus it was 7a.m.  Even though this is central time, my friends still wouldn’t call before noon usually unless there was something wrong.  I answer; it’s Spike.

“Hey Jordan, I was thinking, and I just can’t figure something out.  You’re going to Seattle before you go to San Diego, right?”

“Yes Spike, that is correct.”  An answer of more than five words would have left me interrupted, I’m sure of it.  He was a nice guy, he was genuine.  He just lacked social tact.  

“I’ll never be able to wrap my head around why you guys are going from east to west, but I’ll just have to let that go.  So you are going to Seattle.  You know you’re going south today, right?  Why are you going south today?”  …Fuck you, Spike.  Fuck you.

We peddled through the grass of the farm road out to the gravel road, and finally out to the pavement.  We road for near forty miles, 13 on gravel.  At the end of one gravel road, had a nice fellow stop us, and wanted to take pictures.  It is funny to have this level of interest, but in the middle of corn country Illinois, they don’t see our type very often.  Once we parted ways, twelve miles later, that’s an hour plus in bike time with the current conditions, we went to a small town that was eerily abandoned for lunch.  Tacos.  We love tacos. I had a long run at a restaurant with a great group of Mexicans, and Lauren is fluent in Spanish, having studied in Madrid for seven months, but having medical experience from her stay in Ecuador brings in the Latin American flair.  Once we pull in the young man that stopped us for a picture pulls through town, clearly stoned, and wanted to know if we wanted to hang with him and his friend.  Clearly people are just bored out in the country.

We have a warm showers host set up in Port Byron, Il, and he was planning on riding out to met us around twenty miles north of his home.  It is awesome to have people met you or ride with you on their bikes.  Lauren and I seem pretty compatible, enjoy each others company a great deal, and I couldn’t think of a better traveling companion, but when you introduce someone new to the day, there is a new energy to feed off of.  We road twenty miles on the Great Illinois River Trail, which goes down the coast of the Mississippi River.  It was cool.  The host tells us his wife cooks popcorn for dinner on Sundays, as they are both retired and don’t eat much anymore, so we stop at a Dollar General to pick up breakfast sausage and baked beans. Pretty good, really.  Night sets in at their house on the river, and week two comes to a close.  

 

Week 1

Week1 image image image imageIt is my job to tell you the story as it happened, and not to deprive you of any instances that you may find amusing or beneficial. This means this is not a children’s memo, or for anyone easily offended. My family, I know you’ll still love me. My friends, the same. Future followers, don’t pass judgment, just enjoy the ride, as I know I will. Friends, family, and future followers; feel free to pray for me. God knows I’ll need everything I can get.

Day 1, April 21
“Are You Fucking Kidding Me?”
“Are you fuckin’ kiddin’ me?” These were the first words uttered from my mouth as we pulled out of our friends house to start our three month long bicycle journey. In Asheville, off of Merimon Avenue, we are pulling down the driveway to the street and my platypus, a large water carrying device, slides out of it’s containment, crashing on the pavement and sliding down the hill. Upon retrieval it had indeed cracked. “Your fuckin’ kiddin’ me!” I uttered as I laid my bike on the ground, still in the driveway, to roll the platypus up and put into one of my saddle bags.(I call them saddle bags; I know cyclists call them panniers, but I think so much of the cycling community has always seemed whack, I thought I would just stick to my own terms for comforts sake.)
Once I put my large water vessel, now broken, away, I picked my bike up, put one foot into the rat-cage style peddle, and was ready to go again, only now with significantly less water. My girlfriend, the really strong type, has her head together, she inspires people, goin’ to med-school, all around one bad-ass chick, is looking over her shoulder back at me, just shaking her head in amusement as I start roll slowly towards her again. Then, still in the driveway, the bag that I had just put now broken water vessel in, falls off of my rack will I’m tickin’ at a decent 3 mph. “Seriously, you-have-got to-be-fuckin’-kiddin’-me!”
This was how the journey started. Not even out of the fucking driveway yet and all this has happened. My girlfriend, Lauren, you know, the real strong type, is throughly enjoying herself at this point. Things are back on and we are on our way. I can only keep thinking about the “naysayers” in my head. It must be known that the “naysayers” are a very specific group of individuals, who happen to be my best friends, and are absolutely unrelenting on my decision to take this cross country journey with Lauren, the strong one, on a bicycle, for a fundraiser, to benefit people, help out, you know—-do something good in the world. One of the original bets placed against me, and there are many bets against me and my journey right now, was how far I would make it. One dear friend said Black Mountain. My journey takes me from Asheville NC, to Seattle WA, to San Diego CA. Black Mountain is in the wrong direction. “Naysayers” are good dudes, but they are against me at this point, and I’d be a fucking liar if I didn’t say they are winning at this point.
“Onward.” I proclaim.
We have gone 20 miles and Lauren, strong, has made mention of having a hard time. This seemed unfathomable to me, as she just finished a two month bike tour of South East Asia for this fundraiser, and is just all around in amazing shape. We asses a few things, and truck on. Western North Carolina is not the ideal first day out for a trip, as you are already in the mountains like small, untended sheep, and every 4,000+ foot peak doesn’t gently roll at you like Bo-peep with hugs and kisses, but rather jaggedly entering through your ribs and puncturing your lungs like packs of wild wolfs; almost as unrelenting as the naysayers. 2 miles later she proclaims she has to stop.
“I’m fucking leaving half of this shit hear!” She’s from Maryland, so her accent is not anything like my southern draw, there for her vernacular may not exist. After further assessment we realize there is a post office in Hot Springs only 5.2miles away. She shows me her quad. It is jumping like a puppy would under a light blanket or sheet, shuffling with delight. She doesn’t share this sentiment. I picked her bike up, then mine. Hers was near twenty pounds heavier than mine, more unfathomable to me because 1) she’s like a pro and has done this type of thing before and 2) because I am hauling textbooks in my saddlebags as well as everything else one might need.(Grad student, summer classes. We’ll see how it works out.) I gave Lauren some Progenex to aid her current ailments, worked, kinda.
We start the trek to the Hot Springs post office. Original goal of the day was to be twenty miles past Hot Springs. Uncertainty now looms. Only 5.2 miles. At that time we didn’t realize that the huge uphill climb we had just scaled lead us to a 2 mile more up hill, 8% grade. We walked. Pushing the bikes up the hill and bitchin’ the whole way, I could only think to myself, “You know, I can’t think of one place I’d rather be right now.” I have quite the pension for things that are difficult.
Made it into Hot Springs, mailed some weight off, ate a huge meal, booked a tent site, and called it a day after clean up, studying, and some seriously awesome close time with my amazingly strong women. Did I mention her bike was at least twenty pounds heavier than mine?
April 22, 2013
“Your GPS is Wrong”
Tired. Quick recap. Biked 62-64miles today. Followed the GPS down some wrong turns, where there was even a printed sign that read “Your GPS is Wrong”. Giggled to myself about how easy the first fifty miles were today, haven’t even had to push the bike up a hill after yesterdays ridiculousness. I then pushed my bike up four different hills after that. GPS then took us through some Tennessee housing developments. Highways are usually graded out smoothly over a long distance; developments are hilly nightmares that will haunt your dreams. Almost renegade camped. Didn’t, sick lake view, grilled steak, and burnt the left half of my beard off. Lauren says the tent is filled with the terrible smell of burnt hair. All in all, way easier than yesterday. Rock on. Meet a guy at camp who took our money in the shop, receipt, legit transaction. He had this huge golf cart. Not really a gator, but overhauled to be like one; still a golf cart though. I sake him “this thing got glow plugs?” He looked at me like I was an idiot, and smugly replied, “Naw man, this things electric.” He wasn’t amused by my humor, nor recognized that it was a joke.

April 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and 28, 2014
First Warm Showers host on 23 in Corbin KY. Super awesome. Leading to Corbin we ended up on an interstate, and trust me, many people precede statements with “You haven’t lived until…” but seriously…You haven’t lived until you have biked on an interstate. Dodging traffic on on-ramps is absolutely exhilarating. Hosts were great. Elaine, who I am assuming is sixty+ years of age, biked 17 miles with us out. Her and her husband were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary in two weeks by doing a half triathlon. These folks were serious endurance folks. On the 24th, we biked into a liberal college town, Berea, and stayed with a man and his family, another warm showers host. Nice folks, daughter won some competition about writing about a novel that I had never heard of for the whole state of KY. The funny thing about the house was that, as I write this now on the 28th, I’ve biked in all sorts of weather and terrain, and I haven’t been as muddy as when I left the inside of their house. Great people though. Next day tried to bike to Lawrenceburg. Terrible weather, wind in our face. We are already accustomed to the wind blowing in our faces since we are, quite wisely I might add, heading from east to west. Found a warm showers host who was nice enough to come pick us up nearly thirty miles from his house. We went 17 miles in 2.5hours, and totaled 34 miles this day. Our new host, Dave, was super awesome, and he biked the whole way to Louisville with us, which was such great motivation.
Pulling into Louisville was like starting an amazing dream. The roads were perfect, traffic wasn’t dense, and as we pulled by multiple restaurants and the smell of pulled BBQ filled the air, a slight breeze took the blossoms off of the trees and made a flowered path for us to drive through. Seriously, it was fucking beautiful. The closer we got to down town, the more awesome this place became. We had a host, Forrest and Beth. Super awesome, took us to a bar for some killer pork tacos. There was a downtown festival, as it is one week before the derby, which apparently affects both large cities. The festival made Asheville seem conservative; seriously is was a tattooed circus. No stretch of the truth. Rings and ribbons, ladders, roller skates, hola-hoops, bearded women, and sparkling mead. Interesting.
Forrest told us that there was one road to not go down on our way out of Louisville, and of course, that is the one road that we went down. Everything was barred up, even church windows had bars. Lauren shouts “Did you see those teddy bears around that light pole? They had a picture of a little kid who got shot!” The only thing that I could think was “Mouth shut, eyes open, pedal hard, get us da fuck outta here.” Realizing that I had a blonde haired blue eyed beauty, and a white boy wearing spandex in the middle of the section 8 government housing, shit got sketchy. The fact that I’m a total pussy and grew up in the middle of “small-town U.S.A.” doesn’t help any. I’ve got thick skin, tough as leather when need be. I’ve had weapons pulled on me before. I’ve hung out with the junkies. I’m just not cut out for that shit.
Made it out of the city and into the outskirts, onto Dixie Highway. Lauren and I have had a few small quarrels over her drafting me closely, then running into me. Not that this set the stage, but Lauren was drafting me, a pot whole appeared that took the length of the whole shoulder, Lauren ran into me causing her to flip, and the rest of the day turned to shit. Lauren’s elbow was swollen and bleeding everywhere, she had hit her head denting her helmet, and I felt like dog shit. Since the incident, I have replayed the situation in my head well over twenty times. I usually like to speak in hyperbole, but I can’t really exaggerate when the situation made me feel the way it did. When I flew out of my rat cages and turned around, I saw Lauren with her legs bent to the side, sitting up right, looking at her hands, blood running off the end of her right limb, and tears coming out of her eyes as she cried genuinely from pain; I felt destroyed. A worthless child in bad trouble. A “grade A” jerk. I’ll never forget that site, and I hope I never have to see anything like it. Sure, there was no serious injury, and I was able to fix most of the bike issues on the spot, but nothing can explain what happens in that moment that makes us feel the way we do. If you’ve ever been in a traffic accident where someone was seriously messed up, you understand what I mean. It was a traffic accident, and it fucked us up. After the wreck, a nice lady pulled up and asked if we needed help. Replying that we had a phone and would call an ambulance if need be, she showed up around ten minutes later with cold water and Aleve, a nice gesture. “You know this is called Dixie-Die-way, right?” Fucking great, lady. Exactly what we wanted to hear.
We pushed on Dixie-fucking-death-trap for around twenty more miles before stopping at a war memorial. We sat for around twenty minutes before a family drove in, checking out the memorial. As they were leaving, they saw Lauren, dried blood, head down, and asked if she was alright. We got to chatting, they felt our pain, and hitch hiked us to Owensboro, KY, just over eighty miles away were we caught up with another warm showers host. A nice family, sweet neighborhood, kids, house; a pretty rad set up. The husband fixed up Lauren’s broken break lever, ran new brake lines, and made some adjustments to her newly bent set up in around twenty minutes. Showers, sushi, and two days later, the journey continues. There have been massive tornado outbreaks around the area, 17 families died a good bit of miles north west of us, and the weather has had us trapped for some time. As the weather breaks tomorrow, the journey will continue on.